Eb0la11's 165G Reef Tank Build

[Eb0la11]

Ok, so when should I add my salt? Ive got the tank filled with RODI, its running. Sand has been added as it was sand from an old system that was running about a year ago and has absolutely no life in it (though probably some stuff thats gonna give a big ammonia spike which should help the cycle)

Right now I have some cloudy-ish water. Not super bad, but definitely cloudy. Im also raising the temp of the water now - aiming for 79 degrees. So should I wait until the temp is up and/or the cloudiness dissipates or should I get it in now?

[TJSlayer]

I would get the salt in there right away unless you plan on draining.....

This way your can get it all ixed well so as you add rock, etc. it's good to go....

[Eb0la11]

Ok, gonna add it soon here today. What do you guys think is the best way to add it? I have nothing in the tank but sand and its all churning with a couple powerheads and overflow/return pump. Should I add to sump or DT or what?

How quick should I pour it in? Should I mix it in a 5G bucket first or something and then add?

[Eb0la11]

Hey guys, so now that my tank is full, I woke up to a slightly lower water line in my return pump chamber. This was expected but kind of forgotten about until this morning.

Basically I want to put together an ATO system and what I have on hand so far is a power fist Bilge Pump that does 200 GPH.

So Im wondering how I can rig this thing up to pump in water as the water line goes down? Im thinking I'd be needing to incorporate some kind of infrared thing or something? Or a ball valve? But that wouldnt really work cause the pump would keep going.

What kind of things are all you doing?

[kien]

You have a lot of options for ATO. You can buy rigs like the Tunze ATO which a lot of stores sell. You can rig up a float valve (like the kent float valve) to refill your sump from an RO/DI unit. You can MacGiyver a float switch like this, or you can just buy a float switch ATO system like this.

I use the last one from autotopoff.com. I tried very hard to find float switches in the city but was not able to.

K.

[Eb0la11]

Wow, thanks Kien. I think that the autotopoff.com one looks like a winner to me. Not sure if you can answer a couple more q's?

Whats the difference between a single switch ATO and double switch?

Does this ATO system come with a pump or just a switch that will turn a pump on and off? Would I need to use this in conjunction with my bilge pump?

[Eb0la11]

Hey guys, I got another problem that is puzzling me. I have tiny micro bubbles being injected into my tank from my four returns every two minutes or so. I have no idea how any air is getting into my return line. My sump also has no bubbles whatsoever in it, so its not occuring here and the pump is not sucking in bits of air with water.

Any idea why its still going? I thought perhaps itd stop after a while of running, but its been like 48 hours. It cant be just loose air bubbles still in the lines. Anyone else have this and maybe know what I could look at?

[kien]

Originally Posted by Eb0la11

Wow, thanks Kien. I think that the autotopoff.com one looks like a winner to me. Not sure if you can answer a couple more q's?

Whats the difference between a single switch ATO and double switch?

Does this ATO system come with a pump or just a switch that will turn a pump on and off? Would I need to use this in conjunction with my bilge pump?

The double switch ATO has a secondary float switch that turns off your pump if it triggers. Here's how the whole contraption works..

1. First float switch detects the drop in water level -> switches on your pump
2. Pump pumps water from reservoir into your sump.
3. Float switch detects that water has return to a good level -> switches off your pump
4.... if your first float switch gets stuck, it won't register the rise in water so your pump will just keep pumping in water from your reservoir.. but switch #2 comes to the rescue.
5. If the water raises to the level of switch #2 (somewhere higher in the sump), then it activates and turns OFF your pump.

I don't see why you couldn't use your bilge pump. It doesn't have to be that powerful though. I use a wee little $10 no name brand pump that is submersed in my fresh water reservoir.

One note of caution when setting this up: Be sure to have the outlet from your top off nozzle higher than the top of the reservoir level, otherwise you will create a siphon and even when the pump is turned OFF water will continue siphon out of your reservoir!

K.

[BlueAbyss]

If your evaporation rate is relatively stable, you could rig something with a digital timer. You would have to plumb it so it tees off the main line from your chosen pump, with a valve off each end. Run one to your sump, the other back to the freshwater reservoir, throttle the valve to the sump so it is just open a crack and throttle the other half way open. Don't run the hose to the sump yet. Set the timer for 1 minute, and measure how much water comes through the sump line in that 1 minute time. Figure out how much water you're losing and set the timer to come on for a minute at a time, however many times a day you need (my digital timer has 20 on/off cycles per day). If you need more or less water in a minute, you can adjust the valve accordingly.

Well, that's a cheap and easy way to do it. If your evaporation rate isn't constant, a system like this will need constant dialing in. But it's an idea if all else fails