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#1
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![]() You don't want to use PIF to raise the potassium level, but you can use it to maintain it. When used properly that is exactly what it's made for, maintaining both potassium and iodide levels. By "properly" I mean never exceeding dosing instructions and using a little common sense. For example if it states 1 drop per 25gal daily I would assume this is for a fully stocked high demand system, if you have a medium demand system you would dose half.
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#2
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![]() Quote:
That said, PIF is untouchable for producing vivid blue coloration.
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#3
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![]() Potassium is found in all living cells. I you are feeding your tank either prepared or frozen food, you are dosing potassium.
Since potassium test kits are notoriously inaccurate, the logical way to dose potassium would be to keep up with regular water changes. This would bring K up if it is too low, and reduce K if too much K were being introduced by feedings. The exception would be if it is proved that a given salt mix has a lower K concentration than sea water does. In that case, adding a potassium supplement (for example KCL or K2SO4) to water change water in an amount calculated to bring the K up to sea water levels might make sense.
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120 gallon sps/anemones/LPS reef since 2004 Apex controller 8 x 54 watt T5 PowerModule Herbie's silent overflow system Jebao DC 12000 return pump Jecod CP-40 Cross-flow circulation device Mini Bubble King 180 Barr Aquatics calcium reactor Bucket fuge |
#4
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![]() This is something I worry about...I really don't think the KZ test is very accurate, but possibly that is mostly attributed to user inability. I wish it was the type that you put drops in until it changes color (I forget the terminology for that). I find those are really easy to read, and have much less room for error, or guess work.
Last edited by Myka; 06-27-2009 at 05:57 PM. |
#5
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![]() BOOYAH:
http://www.worldwidereefers.com/foru...read.php?t=413 I've never had trouble figuring out the reading on this test kit, and finally, after reading this post, have figured out why - I take the FIRST impression and don't dwell on the visual as it becomes more and more relative as your eye adjust to the sample (thanks Alexander). HTH's
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#6
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![]() Quote:
Yeah thats what I have been doing as well, it isn't hard for your eye to adjust and "envision" that orange line through your sample. I realized that right away but my eyes are pretty quick, making it tough to come up with a reading on the spot. Eventually I covered up the rest of the line with a piece of paper, seems to do the trick ![]()
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Christy's Reef Blog My 180 Build Every electronic component is shipped with smoke stored deep inside.... only a real genius can find a way to set it free. |
#7
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#8
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![]() or you could just run a Ca reactor with a good ballanced media in it to keep all your trace elements up..
![]() I never doesed K and never tested it.. never even heard of worring about it untill reciently.. amazing how we ever grew nice SPS tank a few years ago ![]() Steve
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#9
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![]() Quote:
This is bankrupt, no offense. Potassium augments the overall vigor of corals and that's something that you can find user support for even within the confines of this thread. Just because it wasn't used during the pioneering days of SPS systems hardly ratifies the position that it is superfluous. The closer we get to ULN NSW water levels, the more and more we find that super low Potassium levels leads to destrimental health problems with many corals (especially SPS). This was traditionally not the case back when our tanks struggled with NO3's and phosphates, but that's all changed over the past couple years with the surging popularity of probiotic methodologies. But I digress - you run ULN for any given length of time paying no heed to your potassium (using a lower grade salt, not dosing, etc) and your SPS starts to get pale and sickly. You bring the levels up to NSW and bam, everything flourishes again.
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#10
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![]() Quote:
on a side note if stores and such are pushing stuff to help get the perfect water levels why are they still telling you that you need over 400ppm of Ca? the average NSW for the world is 380 to 400 so why are people trying to get 450 when it is actually hard on the corals.. oh and there is research that shows that also. (Simplified version is that the coral has to expend more energy to remove the Ca from equilibrium in its cells to deposit it as a skeleton for new growth) I won't say every store, as there are several good ones, but on average the job of a store is to sell stuff.. so if they can bring something to the fore front that wasn't realy looked at befor as it is one of thoes things that is general good, then heck theres a whole new sale on a line of chemicals and test kits. but like I said not all stores are like this and I am not implying that any one reading this is like this but rather just the way things are out there. If I owned a store whould I bing this in.. if it is going to sell hell ya. if it is going to sit on the shelf for ever nope, I can put something in that space that would actualy make money. the problem I have with this K thing is generaly people who are hard core SPS are running massive amount of Ca reactor material, one of the most popular is Carb sea which is a ballanced media. so I could see on initial set up making sure everything is deicent then checking for K maybe every couple months.. and for the record for the last year my SPS take was running I did test for K twice.. it was a little over 400 each time. this is why I don't understand how it gets depleted on a sps tank running a Ca reactor. oh and I was running IO (the only salt I will use) and had zero phosphates and nitrates. Steve
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