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  #21  
Old 11-14-2008, 01:09 PM
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sounds like you have a 90 going into the sump ... can you remove the 90 and replace it with a T ? this will help reduce the back pressure allowing the top of the T to act as an overflow. This is only a temp. solution until you get the time to plumb it better.
If you want to slow down the flow you should use a ball valve on your sump line as well.
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  #22  
Old 11-14-2008, 01:10 PM
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Looks like I could try it one of 2 ways.

First I could put a piece of 1/4" hose on the top, but how do you attach 1/4" hose to a piece of 1 1/2" PVC pipe so that it is adjustable? This sounds like it could be the simplest cure.

Secondly I could turn my 1 1/2" drain into a "Herbie" with a gate valve and use one of the return holes for the emergency drain, leaving me with one hole for returns. The tank currently has 1 - 2 3/4" hole for 1 1/2" drain and 2 - 1 3/4" holes for 1" returns.

I'm not sure I understand why one needs an emergency drain for the Herbie style, but not for the Durso.

Oh my, sometimes I wonder why I started this? (Just silently venting)
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  #23  
Old 11-14-2008, 01:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rocketlily View Post
Looks like I could try it one of 2 ways.

First I could put a piece of 1/4" hose on the top, but how do you attach 1/4" hose to a piece of 1 1/2" PVC pipe so that it is adjustable? This sounds like it could be the simplest cure.

Secondly I could turn my 1 1/2" drain into a "Herbie" with a gate valve and use one of the return holes for the emergency drain, leaving me with one hole for returns. The tank currently has 1 - 2 3/4" hole for 1 1/2" drain and 2 - 1 3/4" holes for 1" returns.

I'm not sure I understand why one needs an emergency drain for the Herbie style, but not for the Durso.

Oh my, sometimes I wonder why I started this? (Just silently venting)
The Durso should be running "wide open" with no obstructions. The Herbie is deliberately obstructed by a gate valve, which can get clogged pretty easily by debris, or an errant fish or snail. If your drain line gets obstructed, but your pump keeps pumping, your floor gets salt-watered. The second drain on the Herbie is to provide an automatic by-pass of the primary drain in that situation, which will take over the flow if the water level gets high enough in your overflow.

Your thought for using the smaller hole for the second drain is feasible only if it can handle the entire flow from the primary when it is turned off.

Good luck! This can get complicated, but you'll get there.
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  #24  
Old 11-14-2008, 01:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by superduperwesman View Post
I think he means something like this??

You got her, nice!
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  #25  
Old 11-14-2008, 02:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by superduperwesman View Post
I think he means something like this??

Sorry, but can someone put some words to this picture for me.
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  #26  
Old 11-14-2008, 03:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rocketlily View Post
Sorry, but can someone put some words to this picture for me.
See below:

Quote:
Originally Posted by sphelps View Post
The first thing I would try is a 2" standpipe. It'll be the quickest and easiest fix and give a better idea where the problem lies.
Another idea would be to install a Tee directly below the bulkhead and run the branch line up and then down into another section in the sump. Next install a valve just above the sump on the main drain line. Closing the valve will cause the drain to fill with water stopping air from entering the sump. You'll want to adjust the valve so water just starts to trickle out the other drain and the back up the valve a tiny bit. This will work similar to a herbie overflow but only needs one drain, it won't be as quiet as you'll get noise through the second drain line as it's connected to the main but you should be able to muffle it.
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  #27  
Old 11-14-2008, 03:32 PM
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Sorry that 45 should just be a 90 or you could use two 45's and one 90. But you get the idea, right?
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  #28  
Old 11-14-2008, 03:37 PM
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Thanks, looks simple enough.

"I would say get rid of this cap and put on one with a single 1/4" piece of hose that you can adjust up or down, and if that does not work you might want to look at changing some of your plumbing Sphelps way."

Last question, how do you mount the single 1/4" piece of hose that you can adjust up or down. Do you just drill a hole in a cap and insert the hose?

Thank you all for all your help
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  #29  
Old 11-14-2008, 03:38 PM
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Show off... do you know what his sump looks like or something? or is that just from someone other persons tank?
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  #30  
Old 11-14-2008, 03:45 PM
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If I recall correctly that is her sump design. I personally wouldn't bother with the air line in the standpipe, with a durso if done correctly it's not required. Try the plumbing setup as shown above, keep your 1.5" Standpipe and use 1.25" plumbing for the rest.
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