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#51
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![]() No ammonia in the RODI water.
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#52
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![]() Great. It's that ammonia that depletes the DI resin quickly on RODI systems fed water w/ chloramines.
Russ |
#53
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![]() what I am thinking as I keep checking this is why the big panic? there nothing new, all the tanks in Victoria have been running 10 years now on chloramine water and most never did anything special to remove it that others are not already doing.
my tank there ran 7 years, Brad has been running way longer, and countless others that had tanks before I did or around the same time. no problems that were atributed to chloramines. if you want to make sure your good, buy a 30 buck ro housing and run two carbon block filters, better yet buy another one also and run two sedimate filters before the carbon blocks. run a 5 micron absolute then run a 1 micron absolute, into two carbon blocks then as normal. if you do this you might spend 60 to 100 bucks. there are more efficient sediment filters out there.. you can buy a bigger housing like I did (more expensive) and upgrade to a 10X4" filter that is a 25micron to 1 micron absolute. I changed this one ever 6 months in Victoria as we had a very high algae count in our water. Steve
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![]() Some strive to be perfect.... I just strive. Last edited by StirCrazy; 01-15-2012 at 02:50 PM. |
#54
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![]() Oh I heard you the first time you said nothing new. No kidding...chloramines have been used for years. However, it IS new to me (having to deal with it that is), and there are many people out there that aren't even aware of it.
Adding ammonia to your tank could very well be a problem! If the carbon in your RODI system doesn't have sufficient contact time to break the bond between ammonia and chlorine the remaining chloramines (particularly monochloramine found primarily at high tap water pH) will go right through the RODI system. Your RODI system also needs enough contact time to not only break the bond, but also to remove the resulting chlorine because chlorine (unlike chloramines) will damage the RO membrane. Another thing to think of is that our test kits aren't exactly lab quality, so taking a couple extra measures (like adding a cartridge of catalytic carbon to the RODI system) might not be such a bad idea. ![]() This discussion is just about awareness Steve, as more and more communities are switching from chlorine to chloramines. I don't see why you would frown on such discussion. Last edited by Myka; 01-15-2012 at 03:10 PM. |
#55
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![]() Quote:
Even if you don't use a powerhead and mix manually you shouldn't have any issues. I stirred my salt manually for 6 months or so and didn't see any ill effects from it. I'm no expert though ![]()
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Current Tank: Red Sea Max 250 <--click Old Tank: 28 gal. AquaEuroUSA cube <--click |
#56
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![]() Quote:
I am waiting for DSB debates to start again now ![]() but seriously most RO systems come with a carbon block filter and that removes them. you want to be sure I posted about adding an aditional carbon block, you want to make your carbon block last longer add a better prefilter, no worries. there were no special filters for this 10 years ago and any company claiming special filters must be used is just trying to sell stuff. Steve
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![]() Some strive to be perfect.... I just strive. |
#57
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![]() I use an analyzer to check total chlorides. I recommend you do the same if you live in a region with water quality problems.
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