in order for hyposalinity to be any good to you you would have to start with the clown you have now unless your treating the clown with a copper based med??
hyposalinity is keeping your cown at a salinity that will keep it alive but kill off the ich parasites, it takes 6 to 8 weeks with 8 weeks seeing the best results.
hyposainity is done at 1.09 you can add your fish straight to hyposalinity in an emergency but its best to slowly lower the salinity by adding more top off water than evaporaton.
the fish has to remain there for at minimum 6 weeks after that you have to raise the salinity very slowly 0.01 ppm per day or by using a drip system.
watch your ph throughout the whole lowering and raising process and always keep the temp stable.
you can use liverock in your hyposalinity treatment but any inverts will surely persih but bacteria will make it so it will help in keeping converting the amonia.
water changes are important but must be done with a refractometer or your salinity levels will rise and fall which is not good for the fish in question and will only help the parasite.
no sand as ich will drop off in to the sand if they feel under attack and lay their eggs and then more ich will appear when you think they are gone.
its important to use visuals to make sure your fish is eating ,free of ick and swimming and breathing normally.
if you raise the salinity to fast the fish will suffer from low oxygen.
feed garlic soaked foods while in qt.
you should see some immediate results from your fish as soon as he hits hyposalinity but remember ich can stay hidden in the gills or ensyst and fall off waiting to lay more eggs during this they are not visible so one should always assume the ich is there untill the appropriate time is reached in hypo.
your display must remain fallow for at least 8 weeks before entering any fish including the one from hypo or the treatment is completely pointless, this process is very important and being impatient is not a good thing when doing hypo.
some of the most common problems in doing hypo is not staying in it long enough,temp fluctuations,not using a refractometer,only treating "the sick fish" ,adding sand to the h tank, not testing twice a day for amonia and ph.
hypo is imo the best treatment for fish but keep in mind it can be stressfull, theres alot of things that can go wrong, and has to be done for all new additions to work. a healthy fast swimming fish can usually beat the parasite if the enviroments are right...no bullying, low stress,variety in food and
pristine water conditions
im sure theres some things im missing but this is the jist of it cheers
ps.....a bigger tank then 10g would go better for you as its easier to maintain water parameters in a larger tank and theres more hiding places and room to swim. 30 g would be a better size for nano fish and 40g and up for larger fish over 5"....this is just my experience and findings and im sure results happen in different ways for different people so just read all you can and make your own choices but the basics are always the same
cheers and good luck