Quote:
Originally Posted by Wanderer
http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/sho...t=66180&page=4
Below is the non scientific Vertex Illumina SR 1200-200 PAR measurement taken with a Apogee Quantum Meter. My tank is 18" tall and the fixture is 6" above the surface.
White 100% - Blue 100% - Royal Blue 100%
759 about 5mm below the surface
484 On left frag rack
392 At top right coral colony
242 Center of Red Monti
227 Center of Clam
185 Front Elegance Coral
214 Bottom right middel of tank
148 Bottom rear of tank
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Yes, saw this and as I mentioned in that thread I'm not overly impressed. Sorry. I achieve higher PAR numbers, especially deeper down into the tank using 60% fewer LEDS and therefore lower power consumption as well. My lighting is also far more even where I would have about the same PAR in the bottom middle of my tank as I will in the bottom front or back. He has 30% less PAR at the front of the tank then he does at the middle.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wanderer
You are entitled to your opinion, I disagree with yours... thats usually the way these things work 
I'm a fan of the Illumina's other benefits like Easy expandability, control elements, smart design. Given the modularity of the LED pads, who says you won't be able to add optics if thats what you believe in?
It's just nice to see a smart design with an eye on the future.
as far as the price ... you don't get a Mercedes for the same price as a Kia |
It's not an opinion, it's science. Here's a nice post on reefbuilders explaining it:
http://reefbuilders.com/2010/01/27/l...ics-explained/
I'll quote the important bit of it:
"But just because an LED is rated at 120 degrees, it doesn’t mean you get the lighting punch of the LED across the entire spectrum. Just like any other point of light source, it’s going to be stronger the closer you travel to the center. Along the central axis the LED emits 100 percent of its relative luminous intensity and will lose intensity the farther you move away from the central axis.
For simplicity’s sake, if a 100 lumen will produce 100 lumens of light at the center and a measurement taken 25 degrees from its central axis, the output of the LED will appear to drop to only 80 lumens. Continuing on the path away from the center axis a measurement taken 45 degrees off axis will yield only 40 lumens, and so on, until at 60 degrees, only 10 lumens or so are emitted."
Also, to add secondary optics they would have to completely redesign the fixture as the emitters would have to be spread out over the entire face of the fixture rather then clustered or you just compound the problem and you would have even higher intensity down the middle and even more drop off front to back. Simply adding secondary optics to this design is not the solution, it would compound the problem. I guess I just don't see it as a "smart" design. It could have used fewer LEDs, reducing the cost, being more energy efficient and likely had higher performance to boot.
It also has nothing to do with Mercedes vs. Kia. I am sure it is a well built unit and it does have some nice features but performance wise I can't justify the price. Would you buy a Mercedes that drove and performed no better then a Kia? I know I wouldn't. I would want a better feel, better acceleration, handling, ride, reliability, build quality etc. to justify the price premium.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Skimmer King
Well Ron i love yoru light and would like to get the break down on where to get the stuff i would love to make one of these lights too for my 60" tank or will a 48" light work?
on a 60" tank
48" work?
How many LED's
what type pf optic's
Color how many blues
how many whites
what type of transformer?
what wire.
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Don't want to hijack this thread away from the discussion of the Illumina fixture. Many of those details are in my build thread so check it out there. or PM me or start a new thread and we can discuss it there.