So I had to take the tank back to Bow Valley to get some changes done. As it turns out I wasn't able to drill the holes for my closed loop into 3/8" glass. I had them put a 1/2" glass panel on the back of the tank. I also figured I'd have them drill it since they had it there. So here it is, with 2" bulkheads for the closed loop, 1 1/2" overflow and a 1" retrun.
Here is most of the parts required to build the closed loop.
Here is the return to the Sequence dart. I used 2" PVC all the way down to prevent pump cavitation. There's a 2" valve and a union for easy removal when pump servicing is needed.
Here is the return via a split manifold. I also have a valve and union on the return side. I ran 1.5" PVC up to the split, then reduced it to 1" for the actual manifold. This should give me good pressure through the 6 x 3/4" locklines I will eventually use.
I must have been tired the night I was working on the manifold because I messed it up a bit. I intended to put a split before the valve under the stand with another valve that I could open for water changes. I forgot to do this.
The water change valve was instead placed higher up behind the tank just before the split for the manifold. It should still work, but will instead be more gravity fed than anything else. Oh well, my water changes will take a bit longer. You can see where the water change valve is in the picture below.
I still need to locate the lock lines from somewhere. I'll probably end up ordering them from J&L because I can't find them locally. Once I've tested the closed loop I'll get to work on the sump plumbing.
Oh ya, I painted the back of the tank white. I've seen tanks with white backs before and like the clean look. Eventually, you won't see much of the back wall anyway.
