well water rodi
 

Okay who uses well water? Our runs through a 1 micron filter, than a five micron carbon block, then uv filter then it enters the rodi unit. I have been using a 1 micron than 5 micron carbon , then di cartidge . I am thinking of dropping the second carbon filter, we have no chlorine, so is it really doing anything other than costing too much. Thinking two 1 micron filters than di.

Any thoughts?

I'm on well water here.
We have a 5 micron/carbon filter - water softener - 1micron RO/DI.
We're pretty happy with it, change the filters every three months or so.
Why do you have UV in there? Coliforms?

Mitch

water
 

UV light to protect from eccoli and such. We are in farm country and after Walkerton Wife's not taking chances.

What is in your ro? Are you using carbon in it too or just 1 Micron filter?

Are you actually using a reverse osmosis cartridge? It sounds like you just have sediment, carbon, and deionization cartridges. The 1 and 5 micron will be either sediment filters or carbon blocks. A RO cartridge won't have a micron rating. The order they should go in (in whatever multiples you may need) are sediment, carbon, RO, DI. The deionization (DI) cartridge will wear out very very quickly if the water isn't RO filtered before it enters the DI cartridge.

1micron, carbon, membrane, DI.

We go through enough water I'm happy with possibly too much carbon, rather than being worried about too little.
I'm not too sure how you can tell when your carbon is exhausted anyways.

The water softener makes the biggest visual difference. There is some staining on the pipe going into the softener, no staining exiting the softener.

Mitch

The softener is before the RO/DI unit right? Both carbon and sediment filters should be replaced every 6 months. The RO should be replaced when its product water gets to 20 ppm or less if you prefer. The DI should be replaced as soon as the product water reaches 1 ppm, but double check that it's coming out of the RO under 20 ppm. Do you have a digital TDS meter to test your water? What is the TDS of your tap water after the softener but before the RO/DI?

Right.
Water well - whole house filter - pressure tank - softener - RO unit.
TDS meter after the softener - input is 193 output is 3. I guess it's time to change something there.

We also have a separate RO unit (no DI) for drinking water that we change everything and disinfect every three months.
I'm not that concerned with the reef RO.

Mitch

weell water
 

It's a stricty H20 three stage. Right now i too use the 1 micron, carbon , membrane, di. Just trying to decide if second carbon is actually doing anything or just a waste of money. we also have an iron filter on the house.

You never realise how much water costs till you have to clean it yourself

Mine was identical to Mitches. Except no DI resin and thats what led to all the troubles with my 225g. No resin to reduce alk. I would never run well water without it on the end again.

I"m on a community well system. Pretty hard. comes out oftap 300-700PPM depoending. Usually around 400. My RO is 5micron/1micron/carbon/RO/DI I have just been changing ALL filters and DI at same time, only changed Membrane once. Water is/has never been 0 coming out of unit. allways 2-8ppm depending

I've always wondered about the accuracy of TDS meters, specially when we're to be getting all freaky over a couple of PPM either way

i have used my well water in my reef in the past (for 1.5 years) with no problems, but since upgrading (merged tanks with the bf) and investing many k's into our livestock we have switched to store bought RO water (the 5gal drinking jugs) to be safe :mrgreen: and so we know exactly what is going on with our water chemistry, and it has paid off.

however we plan to use well water again once we get our new FOWLR up and running, it will just have easy softies (shrooms, anthelia etc) and of course fish.

oh and we use well water in our bio-cube, but it hasnt anything other than shrimp in it so thats why.

In cases like this, it's wise to put a second RO cartridge. Test the water coming out of the second RO cartridge on a regular basis, and when it gets up to 15-20 ppm, throw away the first RO in line, put the second RO into the first spot, and put a fresh one into the second spot. Be sure to change out the sediment and carbon filters every 6 months (no matter how much you use it). Change out the DI resin as soon as you get 1 ppm tds. You should be able to achieve 0 ppm tds this way, and if you swap the two ROs like I suggested you actually won't burn through many more RO cartridges than if you were only running one. :)

You mean run them in series? Do I would have the clean water from one membrane go into the other? 2 RO waste drains? Or parralel them?

Don't wonder, unless you spent some serious $ on your meter the standard deviation is ~ 10ppm.

For the OP, keep in mind that carbon reduces any volatile organic not just chlorine. Pesticides and organic phosphates are always a possibility in farm country.

Very good question! I actually haven't noticed how these units have run, although I do know that generally having dual TFC membranes is considered "commerical". I did a quick Google, and couldn't find any pictures that were detailed enough to figure out how they are hooked up. I'm very interested to find out as well, as I think I will need to add a second TFC membrane when I move to Saskatoon.

I have never heard this before. AquaFX advertises their digital hand held meter as having accuracy +2% from 0-999 ppm.

For instruments I'm use to seeing accuracy stated in units, eg +/- 0.1Volts.

For the AquaFX a percentage of what? Could potentially see this as +/-2% of full range so +/- 20ppm.

personally i would keep the carbon and just put it down to 1 micron. RO/DI units with out 1 micron fiolters for marine aquariums is just taking away from your membranes life. Also flush kits help lengthen the life of a membrane. Carbon doesn't just take chlorine out either.

Housed in a pocket sized ABS case, this electronic Total Dissolved Solids tester is very durable.

- Wide Measurement Range: 1 to 999 ppm
- Excellent Accuracy: + 2% Full Scale
- Long Battery Life: more than 1000 measurements
- One-Point Calibration

That's how I interpret it too Mark.

The instructions for my Milwaukee CD97 states both:
+/- 10ppm @68F
1% EMC deviation of full range (999ppm)