#1
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Best Red Algae Control??
I was wondering what would control red algae the best? I was considering getting a diamond goby, but I was wondering if there is a better sand sifter out there. I have two turbo snails but they don't seem to be quite doing the trick. I think I will be buying another powerhead as well to help with the circulation.
Please let me know. Thanks. |
#2
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I think you need to look at the cause, instead of finding a band-aid/control solution.
The idea of more flow is great, that will most definately help. You should look at your parameters. Are they High? Things Like Nitrate? If so you need to look at: - less feading - more skimming - better flow
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Setup: 180G DT, 105G Refuge (approx. 300lbs LR, 150lbs Aragonite) Hardware: Super Reef Octopus SSS-3000, Tunze ATO, Mag 18 return, 2x MP40W, 2X Koralia 4's Wavemaker Lighting: 5ft Hamilton Belize Sun (2x250W MH, 2X80W T5HO) Type of Aquarium: mixed reef (SPS & LPS) with fish Dosing: Mg, Ca, Alk |
#3
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Thanks for the response. I'm just not sure how to clean up the algae that is already in there. Once everything straightens out will it just go away? My parameters don't seem to be registering high, but then I'm not sure about my test kits sometimes. What are the best names/brands to buy? I currently use Aqua Test by Elos. My skimmer seems to be skimming fine as well (it's a Remora C Pro and I also have a Fluval FX5 canister filter). I know more flow would be good and I don't overfeed. Sometimes I think I may actually underfeed. I do want to take care of the problem and not just "cover it up" as I know that the problem needs to be eradicated. I would still like to know the best way to clean up the algae as well though.
Last edited by infamous; 05-05-2010 at 11:56 PM. |
#4
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Quote:
speaks the truth |
#5
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I got some neglected rock that had lots of cyno on it. I just used a turkey baster to suck it off the rocks when I did my water changes and it was soon all gone. Water changes and good circulation are key, I don't know of anything that will actually eat the stuff.
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#6
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An old toothbrush does a good job on most forms of algae on live rock.
Making an inhospitable environment (i.e. clean water) is the best way to cure the problem longer term.
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-Mark 29 Gal Bowfront w/24" LED Lights. DIY HOB Sump (5.4 Gal) MP40. Orange Spotted Watchman Goby, 2 Clownfish and a few hermits. |
#7
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Quote:
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#8
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personally I would get rid of the canister filter, they do tend to become nitrate factories and could be contributing to your issue. ELOS are good test kits, so if you are using them properly, they are accurate.
If possible, please post your test results for us to look at.
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Setup: 180G DT, 105G Refuge (approx. 300lbs LR, 150lbs Aragonite) Hardware: Super Reef Octopus SSS-3000, Tunze ATO, Mag 18 return, 2x MP40W, 2X Koralia 4's Wavemaker Lighting: 5ft Hamilton Belize Sun (2x250W MH, 2X80W T5HO) Type of Aquarium: mixed reef (SPS & LPS) with fish Dosing: Mg, Ca, Alk |
#9
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Agreed. Canister filters are a problem waiting to happen, and tend to become nitrate traps(if filtration is used)
In the the time in this hobby I have never ever ever ever found a good 100% solution to hair algae-red or green when it comes to fish or inverts. I think the only way to truly fix the problem is: 1/Water changes 2/clean rock or and hope stuff doesnt grow back 3/lower nutrient import into tank 4/ And if none above works, take out the bad piece of liverock and boil it because there is probably something in the rock like a dead crab or worm that has sparked the algae bloom on that rock and allowed the algae to gain a foot hold. IMO of course. good luck
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84 gallon Osaka reef-Closed down Jan 16th/2011 AP12 HQI-Started Jan 4th/2011 BC29 HQI-Started Jan 14th/2011 Ryan |
#10
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Test kits may or may not give you readings because cyno (actually a bacteria instead of an algae so most fish don't touch it) can take up the nutrients as soon as they get released.
What is your water source? What is your substrate if any? |
Tags |
control, red algae |
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