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#81
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![]() So could you tell me what they coated everything with...I might want to use that.
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Mark... ![]() 290g Peninsula Display, 425g total volume. Setup Jan 2013. |
#82
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![]() I'll find out the name of it from the guys tomorrow. It's a 3 part system, there were two base coats that were like a cross between black primer and paint, it had a really rough texture and just soaked right in to anything that was porous like the back of the drywall. The final coat has gone on like rubbery plastic almost. They said it's commonly used in swimming pools and truck liners.
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#83
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![]() So haven't seen any updates on this lately...what is the latest news?
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Mark... ![]() 290g Peninsula Display, 425g total volume. Setup Jan 2013. |
#84
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![]() I'm hoping for an update by Monday. I guess when the glass arrived to the builder who's manufacturing the tank, the top edges had been cut by the supplier really brutally. There was too much of a variance in height from one side of the panes to the other for the guy to grind it down in his shop, so the glass had to be sent back to be re-cut. The tank was supposed to be in before christmas, but that has delayed everything.
At this point we're waiting on the tank to start painting the exterior of the enclosure, and if all goes according to plan it should hopefully be installed on Monday. The rest of the house is motoring along nicely however! The only other thing I've been pondering is my lighting situation. I was dead set on Radions for the past few months, but I'm seriously re-considering metal halides now. |
#85
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![]() Halides will get you going cheaply enough (startup) and by the time you're ready for your first bulb-swap there will be a bunch of new and better fixtures not to mention better diodes (in them or for DIY). You want to get the thing running soon so I like your thinking.
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#86
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![]() Quote:
Moral of the story, if I'm going to spend 5 thousand bucks on LED light fixtures, spending it after MACNA 2012 is probably going to get me a heck of a lot more for my money. |
#87
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![]() might seem like a dumb question, but if you have even considered leds, and by the sounds of it, it has crossed you mind, why not DIY? some modulars would be much cheaper and offer a lot of the same color options as radions. I dont know if they are quite up to par side by side, but for the money you'd be saving, and the fact that they are modular means you could swap out the bulbs in a heartbeat if they came out with a newer more powerful modular bulb.. thats what I think anyway haha
I'm really excited to see how this whole project comes together!
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I'm not 'fallow' you must be talking about my tank! |
#88
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![]() Quote:
I had considered building my own LED fixture, but originally discounted it because I had no time, place, or tools to build one. Now that I think I'm going to start out with MH it's more of a possibility as the new house will have a workspace that I could build something like that in (though I don't have any tools, or technical know how what so ever!) so I could take my time without delaying my tank if I decided to go that route. However, one of the things that REALLY attracts me to the Radions is the software that comes with it, and I'm most definitely not going to be able to reproduce something like that on my own, so I'm still going to remain open to a fixture if one that I fully trust with my system comes along. |
#89
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![]() I chose to go the LED route, but I also chose DIY instead of fixtures. $5000 or more was too big a pill to swallow. My DIY light has come together really well so far and with the BJB connectors, it has been soooooo simple. Price wise, I'm looking at less than half the cost and a little elbow grease. I don't know electrical either, but it's coming together.
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Mark... ![]() 290g Peninsula Display, 425g total volume. Setup Jan 2013. |
#90
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![]() At last! There is a tank!
Kevin and some guys were at the house today installing it. Wish I could have been there to document it (it's HUGE!), but I stopped in to take some pics this afternoon. Dining room side ![]() Office side ![]() Overflows ![]() ![]() Now, there's one problem that may or may not be major, and I'm hoping someone here can give me guidance. Kevin is headed out of town for the next 10 days and I don't think I'm going to be able to reach him, and they are literally putting the panel on the office side that will seal the tank in to the wall as we speak. After that, they will be mudding, taping, and tying the drywall in to the enclosure's corners, so removing the tank if this is a problem is going to become exponentially more destructive, expensive and time consuming, so I need to know if this is a problem now. The plywood that the tank is sitting on is 3 inches thick, they had to build it up so that the cabinet framing had something other than the steel stand to attach to. When they made the plywood, it was bowed and the centre was higher than the sides, so they installed bracing on the underside to pull the plywood flat. It appeared to have worked, but now that the tank is on, I can see that there's like a quarter inch variance in height from the centre of the stand to the left and right sides. On the right side (when looking from the office), you can see all the way under the tank to the dining room. Here's a pic of the foam/plywood interface in the centre of the tank: ![]() Here's a pic of the foam plywood interface at the left edge (when looking from the office): ![]() So my question is thus - how much allowance is there in that foam for compression? Will it compress enough to compensate for the slight bow in the plywood, or am I going to be looking at a snapped tank when I fill it with water? I really could use some guidance... |