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#71
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![]() I just joined Canreef, and it is great to see a group in Edmonton meeting regularly, i would love to tag along to the next meet if that is OK.
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#72
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![]() Yay! The more, the merrier
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#73
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![]() Sounds good, thanks!
What is this "demo" people are talking about? |
#74
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![]() Well - I missed the last meet, but one of the guys did a demo on fragging! I hear it was pretty cool. So, someone has to come up with something for the next one.
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#75
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![]() Gotcha. Could that demo be re-done for those of us who missed it?
![]() If anyone is interested I could explain how I setup an ultra-safe auto top off system that includes my RODI unit. |
#76
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![]() Well, Murry . . . are you into a repeat performance???
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#77
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![]() Quote:
![]() I'd be up for the auto-top off demo
__________________
Murray I reserve the right to hijack any thread I want to!! My carbon footprint is bigger than your carbon footprint !!!! |
#78
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![]() I will buy the zoos you frag for the demo.
Re-thinking the auto-top off demo, it would be much easier if i do that demo when I host a meet at my place, otherwise I have to tear apart too many electronics. Are the meets Monthly? I could probably finish up my basement by the end of April ![]() I will demo a "new" idea about sand beds - RDSBs - Remote Deep Sand Beds. I will bring in a sample one, and discuss how it works. It is a cheap and potentially very beneficial filtration system. |
#79
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![]() Not to dissapoint, here are the details of my auto top off system:
The first problem to overcome when using an RODI unit in an auto-top off system is that an RODI unit is not electronic in any way. There is a hydraulic way to control an RODI unit, with the use of a float VALVE, and a hydraulic valve. When the float valve in your water container or tank closes, pressure builds up in the line, the hydraulic valve closes, and this shuts off production of both waste and good water from the RODI. the hydraulic valve is spliced into the plumbing of the RODI unit with quick disconnects. This system is commonly used for RO drinking water units. The problem with using it for a reef though, is that the line between the storage container and RODI can be quite long, and not enough pressure builds up to trigger the hydraulic valve consistantly. No flooding happens, but your RODI unit keeps pumping out waste water forever, no good. You can solve this by installing a bladder right after the RODI unit to build up the required pressure. BUT, there is an alternative way that I prefer, or even better, use both systems for redundancy. Everyone knows what a float switch is, it turns on and off with changing water levels. I setup 4 float switches for redundancy purposes. This goes to a 12v relay switch (to limit the voltage to the switches or they will blow) which is connected to a sprinkler solenoid. The sprinkler solenoid is perfect because it attaches to your water system in the house, same as your RODI unit does. So, when the float switches call for water, the sprinkler solenoid opens, and allows water to go to the RODI. The RODI then fills the resevoir or your sump, the float switches turn off, sprinkler solenoid closes, and no more water to your RODI. The sprinkler solenoid also defaults to OFF without any power, so if your power goes out, no worries of a flood. 4 float switches are not necessary, 2 is probably good enough, one higher than the other so that if one gets stuck, the other is a backup. Mine are setup so that they are in pairs, and one from each pair has to be activated, or the relay and sprinkler solenoid do not get triggered. This protects me against multiple failures in the on or off position. |
#80
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![]() Hahaha Murry - I bet you get asked all the time!
Reefgeek - if you would like to demo the top off on my tank, it would be absolutely ok with me ![]() |