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#1
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![]() I have the float switches and cable to make my switch box orders off eBay. Just awaiting there arrival and I will plumb in an ATO
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http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=91227 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EaS8BVyU4EU 150Gal 48x24x30 with centre rear overflow (1" controlled drain with 1 1/2" emergency and 1" pump return) 33 gal sump/refugium Sun System Tek-light T5 6 bulb Mag18 return pump RLSS R8i skimmer Neptune Apex controller BRS combe reactor (carbon GFO) |
#2
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![]() ok day 2 and as i read some threads on cycling my tank i came across a a thread stating measure your ammonia and if it is over 2ppm to do a complete water change...... well i measure mine today and i see about 3 to 4 ppm ammonia.....
instantly got up and performed a 25% water change, started making RO water and heading to LFS for salt. I also read not to start with sand in the tank, of course i have seen other posts that say you can start with sand in the tank. what is the general consensus? I have 3.5 inches of sand in the bottom.
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http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=91227 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EaS8BVyU4EU 150Gal 48x24x30 with centre rear overflow (1" controlled drain with 1 1/2" emergency and 1" pump return) 33 gal sump/refugium Sun System Tek-light T5 6 bulb Mag18 return pump RLSS R8i skimmer Neptune Apex controller BRS combe reactor (carbon GFO) |
#3
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![]() I've always started with sand in the tank. Can't really see any benefit to not having the sand in there to start, because when you end up putting it in, there will have to be another mini-cycle all over again.
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![]() They call it addiction for a reason... |
#4
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![]() +1 what would be the reason for adding sand after?
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225gal dt with 100g sump. Mitras, vortechs, bubble king, AI Sol and Profilux. http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/sho...threadid=84782 Will trade subs for frags ![]() My other summer hobby: http://www.edkra.ca |
#5
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![]() If I'm starting a tank from scratch I don't bother with a water change until after ammonia and nitrite read zero. For that matter I don't even bother testing ammonia ... I would test nitrite. The initial cycle is complete when nitrite reads zero.
The way I understand this ... the bacteria that feed on ammonia (and nitrite) grow in population proportional to the amount of resources that they feed on. The more food, the more they reproduce producing more bacteria to eat more ammonia. So reducing ammonia by doing a water change doesn't really help speed the cycle along, in fact it might even slow it down some. Of course, once they reach critical mass (the point at which they consume it faster than it is produced, giving you a zero reading), unless there is a continued source for the resources, they will start to die off so you need to ramp up the ammonia production by getting some life into the tank at that point.
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-- Tony My next hobby will be flooding my basement while repeatedly banging my head against a brick wall and tearing up $100 bills. Whee! |
#6
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![]() Sand in IMO , your sand needs to start building up beneficial bacteria etc.
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Mike 36 Gallon Saltwater http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=72283 90 Gallon Slow Build http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=82824 |
#7
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![]() quick update... Tank is cycling away. Ammonia is spiking hard. Skimmer is working awesome, pulling out about 1.5 cups of ugly brown stuff every day. set up an ATO of sorts, pre filled a container with 6 gal of RO/DI water put a small maxi jet pump in the container and plumbed a 3/8 tube into my sump. Made 2 marks on the side of my sump showing min. water level and where to fill to...... Now the wife just plugs in the pump and watches the level and unplugs when it is at the max. mark......... my new ATO (at least until my switches arrive
![]() on another note I have changed to running the lights only 2 hours a day to minimize algae growth if possible. let the waiting game begin ![]()
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http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=91227 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EaS8BVyU4EU 150Gal 48x24x30 with centre rear overflow (1" controlled drain with 1 1/2" emergency and 1" pump return) 33 gal sump/refugium Sun System Tek-light T5 6 bulb Mag18 return pump RLSS R8i skimmer Neptune Apex controller BRS combe reactor (carbon GFO) |
#8
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![]() Haha......I love it. Your wife is your ATO. Nice work.
You're trying to combat algea growth right off the bat. All I can say is Brutha, the algea is going to come. I dealt with green hair algea and it was BAD. It was like that for like three months. I'll send you a picture of how bad my tank looked. Today I don't have a spot of GH algea but got another kind of unknown algea. It's all but gone now as well but it is frustrating. it's best to brace for it and expect it and in time it will all go away. When your ready drop me a PM and I'll give you some Cheato. That will help. |
#9
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![]() hey , this is coming along great man i knew you would do well with it
![]() once you think your cycle is done you can do a large water change to bring everything in range , then you can start to work on your water parameters ![]() get to thinking about how your going to handle phosphates and nitrates export, read up on them and find what you think is your best option ![]() as your finding, patience is the key and while its easy to try to rush it with a bit of time it will all come together ![]() cheers and good job!! denny ![]() |
#10
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![]() Nice build, love the snails name! Sponge Bob fan? lol
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