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#41
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![]() Apple computers are assembled in China using components that come from electronics companies all over the world (chips from the US or Japan or Korea, LCD screens from Japan and Korea, hard drives from Japan etc. Probably even numerous components from China. Apple bought CNC mills to put at it’s Chinese manufacturing partner’s facility (Foxconn) to machine all the aluminum enclosures etc. in-house in China. However, they are assembled to Apple’s specs and requirements. In fact, most of the consumer electronics we use are assembled in China but design and components are specified by Apple, Sony, Microsoft etc. It’s not about where something is built but about the design, the quality of the components and the quality control that is required by and overseen by the particular “brand”. And not all brands are created equal. Sony used ot have a great reputation for quality and reliability (not sure they still do). Apple does too. I have used tons of Apple hardware starting in the early 90s and I have very rarely seen a hardware failure (or major software failure for that matter). Part of what you pay for with Apple is also the OS and the R&D that has gone into it.
Anyhow, I'm not here to make this into a PC vs. Apple debate :-) The cheap LED fixtures are slapped together by the companies in China without any R&D, design or long term testing. As for the LED chips, Cree does produce their own chips at Fabs in the US. I believe Phillips does as well. Bridgelux designs the chips but doesn’t manufacture themselves. They contract that out and I believe Toshiba is one of their big contractors for the actual chips. Seoul Semiconductor is Korean and I imagine manufacture their chips at facilities there. Now anyone can take a high quality LED emitter from Cree for example and run it on a cheap driver with a crappy heatsink etc. They will still have problems down the road. It’s the overall package that’s important. I’ve spoken to several people who have run cheap fixtures and they were happy with them in the short term but not over the long term because of problems. Sure people have problems with expensive fixtures too but at least you will get warranty support etc for those. It’s harder to get support for the cheapo ones. I can't see how a $200 120W LED light can have any quality components in it. It will either be generic LEDs or the cheapest bins from Cree or Bridgelux etc. And they will have to skimp on power supplies and drivers etc to come in at that price. There's no way. I haven't checked prices today but you can't DIY a decent 120W LED fixture for $200. And even at lower costs with volume purchases of components a $200 fixture is not going to have any quality whatsoever. Does that mean I suggest you run out and buy a $2000 fixture? No, not at all. But don't try to make it sound like a $200 fixture is going to perform anywhere near as well as a $2000 fixture. It's just not possible. If you want to get a quality LED light on a budget then DIY is the way to go. It isn’t particularly difficult for anyone even remotely handy. I still have the four foot fixture I built several years ago using Cree emitters and Meanwell drivers and overkill heatsinks etc. I’m getting ready to re-enter the world of large reef tanks and will be using it on a new 120 gallon build as I can’t afford to spend $1800 on a Vertex fixture or a couple Radion Pros etc. But if I were buying an off the shelf fixture I would avoid the cheap generic/rebranded Chinese fixtures for many of the reasons I mentioned. In fact, I haven’t even seen a mid range fixture that I particularly like (Maxspect, Kessil etc). If I couldn’t afford a high end fixture I would just go DIY again. You can then build something for your own personal application with the mix of colours and configuration you want. |
#42
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It's just that when I see the much over used 'you get what you pay for' argument, I can't help but write a novel. There are so many variables with the products we're offered these days it's difficult to see the forest for the trees. Certainly there's a lot to be said for brand names & R&D, but there really are no guarantees in the end. We're all human & Asians, Europeans, North/South Americans, what have you can have a bad day at the assembly line. Of course the conditions with which these workers have to deal with will have an impact on how many bad days they have. I'm guessing here, but the company called 'solaris'? came out with some first generation LED fixtures that cost in the range of $2K and up? The company went bankrupt primarily due to a patent law suit IIRC, but the fixtures also had issues with their power supplies. Ask the folks that put out thousands for these quality fixtures how they feel about that. I run VorTechs on my tank & am quite happy with them despite the price, but the first one I purchased was a Gen 1 MP40 on which the wet side magnets would rust after about 6 months of use. Of course the current models use improved magnets that don't rust, but I still paid top dollar for something that was made in the USA & probably rushed to market before all the R&D was done properly. I don't own a Radion LED, mainly due to the price, but it seems they rushed the first batch of those out as well, due to mounting pressure from the competition. Witness the newer models with improvements & tweaks. The originals were still pretty costly. Anyhow, sorry for the long winded novel again, but my experience is you don't always 'get what your pay for'.
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Mike 77g sumpless SW DIY 10 watt multi-chip LED build ![]() |
#43
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![]() I hear you. Yes, any product can have defects or problems. A Porsche can have problems just like a Kia. But don't expect the Kia to have the same performance, build quality or materials as the Porsche. So while it's not a 100% accurate rule, in general I do find you get what you pay for. A better, more expensive brand will generally be better in most cases than a cheap generic product. I'm sure we can can make a list of examples that aren't the case but I think in general it is true.
My point was just that a $200 generic LED fixture is highly unlikely to have the performance, build quality and durability of a high end fixture. |
#44
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![]() Dammit!!!!!!
So are you guys saying I can't get by with my Commador 64? |
#45
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#46
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![]() My nitrates are at 20 ppm and phosphates at .26 and everything grow like weeds. My SPS grow much faster than some people who have low nutrient system. I do feed my corals quite a bit, zeovit amino acid, coral vitalizer and sponge power each day, fauna marin ultraclam, ultra zoa and ultra min 3 to 4 times per week.
Colors are great too. I am trying to lower this a bit but was told if it's not broken don't fix it, so I put some bio-cube to lower the nitrates slowly and it seem to be working, nitrates are at 5ppm. At some point my nitrates were at 50ppm and more, phosphates at .36, no problem with that either.
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_________________________ More fish die from human stupidity than any other disease... Last edited by daniella3d; 10-30-2013 at 01:21 AM. |
#47
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![]() daniella3d, thank you for your input.
The corals seem to be acclimating a lot better to turning up the whites. I took a picture this evening: ![]() ![]() ![]() |