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View Poll Results: Which Return Pump for a 90 Gallon | |||
Sedra KSP-20000A |
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5 | 13.89% |
Water Blaster HY-7000W Pump |
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11 | 30.56% |
Lifegard Aquatics Quiet One 9000 Water Pump |
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5 | 13.89% |
Other recommendation |
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15 | 41.67% |
Voters: 36. You may not vote on this poll |
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#31
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Feed the bear goodies, make a new friend, don't feed the bear............... 8' - 165gal Reef DIY LED's Build 2012 Nano Contest Winner Febuary 2013 POTM Winner 300 gal + 60 gal Complete DIY Build |
#32
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![]() Huh, a post from the 'Bean' himself
Now Canreef is really national ![]() |
#33
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Just a short update on the pump. I can't imagine a quieter pump. My skimmer is the loudest noice in the sump area. No issues what so ever after 2 months.
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Mike 36 Gallon Saltwater http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=72283 90 Gallon Slow Build http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=82824 |
#34
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Feed the bear goodies, make a new friend, don't feed the bear............... 8' - 165gal Reef DIY LED's Build 2012 Nano Contest Winner Febuary 2013 POTM Winner 300 gal + 60 gal Complete DIY Build |
#35
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Welcome to Canreef Bean. Thanks for posting some of your usual wealth of equipment info.
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Doug |
#36
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![]() Thanks for the welcome guys...
It is my understanding that both SaltySupply and Aquarium Specialty are stocking and selling them. I have no affiliation with either. I don't have an affiliation with RLSS either. In Canada, you will want to call Aquatic Kingdom in Mississauga. It appears that the list of stores is growing quickly too: http://www.rlss.ca/#!retailers I think most of you know I am not in the "review" business and most of the time when I talk about a product, it is because I hate it ![]() The back story for anybody who cares: I have been looking for suitable DC aquarium pump for YEARS and even purchased a brushless DC motor or two to try and adapt to a ReeFlo wet end (as well as 3-phase AC motors). Bleh... too messy and too much hassle, noise, etc. I am in the process of a possible total system redesign and rebuild and got the "variable speed" tunnel vision again so started looking again. A guy in our local club had the RD DC pump and it was expensive and died several times, so no go. I tried to source the Iwaki DC pump but it appears to be vaporware. I found a youtube video for the waveline and was impressed. I called RLSS when I read more about the pumps and was even more impressed after talking to them. No kidding, after I saw the youtube video and then talked to them, I was like a little kid waiting for a Daisy Red Rider! I don't honestly think I have been this anxious to get my hands on a new toy since I was a little kid. The last few times I have been even close, I have been sorly let down when my expectations have exceeded reality. In all honesty the only two aquarium products I have ever owned that have met my (maybe too) high expectations are the Waveline pumps and my Oceans Motions. I certainly hope these pumps are long term durable, because I am designing my rebuild around them. I figure at $300 each and roughly 85W at full power for the DC1000, they are an efficient bargain any way you look at it. Currently : 140W Velocity + all the heat it adds 150W ReeFlo snapper 35W Magnum 350 Power Filter (skimmer feed, mechanical filtration, media) Roughly 325W + a fair amount of heat. If I run 2x DC1000 (return and closed loop) and the DC5000 for the skimmer, media reactors etc. I am at 210 Watts WORST CASE! That is (at face value) 120W of savings right off the bat. The T4 was likely putting at least half of its power (~60W or so) of heat INTO THE TANK! I gain control and impart less heat to the tank. So I figure more like 150W-200W of saving 24 hours per day. At $.25 per kWh, that is close to $.75 a day in electrical cost savings. That is $22 a month! Now... I am not deluded into thinking these (or any equipment) will pay for itself. It may or may not. The IMPORTANT part is that you can beg, borrow, cheat or steal momey for equipment and the warden does not need to know. What the warden does see is the monthly electric bill! It follows that any fixed one time cost (recouped or not) to lower the montly appearance of expendature is well worth every penny! So I spend $1000 on new pumps, but the $300 electric bill goes to $275 and I am not a hero, but I am no longer the $300 villian, just a $275 villian. Do the same with some LEDs (that I am not yet fully sold on) and maybe another $20 a month... and I am only a $250 Villian! Remember to turn off more lights, shut the compressor in the shed off (I often forget) and I am a $200 villian and life is much better! Last edited by BeanAnimal; 08-30-2012 at 12:32 PM. |
#37
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![]() Cool to see a reef celebrity
![]() To add to this discussion in my case for submersible pumps I recently switched a Sedra 9000 which had an impeller issue (unit itself was buzzing) and frankly was too small for my setup anyway for an Eheim Compact 5000+ and love it so far. Having the adjustable flow right on the pump saves the plumbing and head loss from any sort of flow adjuster above the pump. While not dead silent, it's got a very tolerable frequency of sound. Plus the pump is comically small compared to the Sedra, about half the size and ~1.5x stronger. You can also crank it down to the same flow as the other pumps if required, and it gives a fairly large range for a potential upgrade later. |
#38
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![]() You are correct, some folks may miss the added heat from a pump like the T4. That siad, nothing is "free" and in most cases the watts being shed as heat in the pump (heating the water) are watts not used to move water. That is a 140 watt pump that imparts 40w of heat into the water, 20W of heat into the room and 90W of energy into 1000GPH of water movement is likely less efficient (as a system) compared to a 40W heater and and a 90W pump that moves 1000GPH of water.... We can get into complicated scenarios but no matter what, we want our pumps to move more watts per gallon. If we submerge that pump in the sump, we are capturing the heat it sheds anyway and things are a bit more fuzzy. But yes, for external pump users who also have to run heaters, any watts being shed to the room and not the tank are "wasted". In those cases, a submerisble pump is likely a better choice, as ALL of the heat shed has to travel through the water ![]() Quote:
While the "adjuster" may be convenient, it does not save "head loss" ![]() At any given head (read "the total resistance to flow that the pump sees") the pump will discharge a fixed amount of fluid. In other words, the pump curve is fixed and not relevant to HOW or what is causing the "head". It could be your adjuster, it could be your thumb over the discharge, it could be the 20 feet of discharge hose, etc. Hope that helps. We just know that for a given backpressure there will be a fixed volume of flow per time. That said, I am sure that the compact 5000 is a great pump, as most (all?) of the eheims appear to be. Last edited by BeanAnimal; 08-30-2012 at 02:30 PM. |
#39
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#40
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![]() I forgot to mention that I had meant with the adjuster it was better in that it's considerably smaller and simple. It requires a lot less of a rube goldberg device so less chances of friction or turbulance in order to reduce the flow not that there was zero loss.
![]() The differences between even internal/external with the same wattage pump and how it'll affect the tank and room just reinforces the point of how specific to a setup each piece of gear is. You just need nice accurate specs! You're technically inclined so I'm sure we could talk ad naseum about these things, haha. |