#31
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Quote:
What do you mean by "beep's"
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Clintos:29G Cube 24"x24"x12"D,ATI 24" 6 x 24W powermodule,4 blue,2 x 10 000K ATI's, tap water, 1 mp 10, 1 nano hydor,mag 3 lift pump, approx 40lbs L.R,2" dsb,15G sump/refuge, 23watt refuge light,3" dsb,carbon reactor,filter sock,blastos,yumas,maxi mini carpet's,paly's,perc,algae blenny. "Corals,corals,corals-they are as fascinating as candle lights." PHYTO4LIFE |
#32
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A cheap trick for getting rid of camera shake on longer shutter speeds is to use the self timer, or you can take it through EOS Utility.
Eos Utility works under Windows 7 64bit for the live view and camera control. Lightroom is much better for shooting tethered though . Cheers, Tim |
#33
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Subject: pink recordia yuma
Working with: canon eos rebel xs 1000d, lens 18-55mm, 50 mm nifty fifty, and the kenko extension tubes 12mm, 20mm, 36mm. Not sure where to start regarding size of tubes and lens? I have a tripod and computer live remote shooting with a laptop. but I also have a wired hand held shutter button, if needed? My subject is approx 2" from the front glass in the middle of the tank under 6 t5 h.o and I can get my camera right against the glass. Should I shoot in the dark with tank lit? I'll be turning the pump's off. besides the very low flow lift pump, in the back. Where should I start with shutter speed to maximize detail in the pic? subject is at the same angle as the front glass. And I want to maximize the subject so she fill's the frame, where should I start with the aperture? what len's and what extension tube/tube's? mirror lock up?
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Clintos:29G Cube 24"x24"x12"D,ATI 24" 6 x 24W powermodule,4 blue,2 x 10 000K ATI's, tap water, 1 mp 10, 1 nano hydor,mag 3 lift pump, approx 40lbs L.R,2" dsb,15G sump/refuge, 23watt refuge light,3" dsb,carbon reactor,filter sock,blastos,yumas,maxi mini carpet's,paly's,perc,algae blenny. "Corals,corals,corals-they are as fascinating as candle lights." PHYTO4LIFE Last edited by phyto4life; 12-16-2011 at 09:14 AM. |
#34
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I see that some people put a black background. can this be done through photo shop convincingly? or is it better to use black acrylic/plexiglass before taken the image?
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Clintos:29G Cube 24"x24"x12"D,ATI 24" 6 x 24W powermodule,4 blue,2 x 10 000K ATI's, tap water, 1 mp 10, 1 nano hydor,mag 3 lift pump, approx 40lbs L.R,2" dsb,15G sump/refuge, 23watt refuge light,3" dsb,carbon reactor,filter sock,blastos,yumas,maxi mini carpet's,paly's,perc,algae blenny. "Corals,corals,corals-they are as fascinating as candle lights." PHYTO4LIFE |
#35
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Use tripod and some kind of remote, either the laptop or the wired remote, which ever.
I would use the 50mm, not sure which extension tube combination will give best results but I would try a few combinations until you get the subject within the the full frame and still have some focus tolerance on both sides. I would use aperture priority mode starting at about f16, shutter speed will be determined automatically but if you find the shoots over or under exposed simply adjust your exposure +/- setting accordingly. Remember aperture controls DOF and ultimately how much of the subject will be in focus, shutter speed doesn't really control anything related to detail provided everything remains perfectly still. Manual focus as previously discussed, focus on the center point of DOF on the subject to maximize overall DOF. Mirror up could be a good idea, but again but if your tripod is decent you shouldn't need it. Mirror up may be automatically selected if you're using a laptop with a live preview. Remember to set the WB, minimize ISO, and shut off all tank movement and room lights. For blacking out the background experiment with smaller apertures (remember that means higher f number) and longer exposures. You may notice that the background becomes darker but it's pretty hard to completely black it out with the camera only so you'll have to finish it off in photoshop. You can do it completely manually as well using photoshop by making multiple layers and using the quick selection tool. Last edited by sphelps; 12-16-2011 at 03:22 PM. |
#36
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thanks
I get a little confused with aperture, because I thought that if I wanted to have 90% of the yuma fill the image that I would need the aperture wide open(low f#) to have the entire shroom in focus? The first pic of the sps is exactly the effect I am trying to get with my yuma, except with the subject centered and filling approx 80-90% of the shot, leaving just the background black. I'm going to take the shot tomorrow. does it matter if I am in the sunlight/artificial light or in the dark? regarding exif, is their I can see the exif of another person's picture? I found this info about exif, but I am not sure if I should download it? does it come with photshop or my camera's cd? http://www.takenet.or.jp/~ryuuji/min...fread/english/
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Clintos:29G Cube 24"x24"x12"D,ATI 24" 6 x 24W powermodule,4 blue,2 x 10 000K ATI's, tap water, 1 mp 10, 1 nano hydor,mag 3 lift pump, approx 40lbs L.R,2" dsb,15G sump/refuge, 23watt refuge light,3" dsb,carbon reactor,filter sock,blastos,yumas,maxi mini carpet's,paly's,perc,algae blenny. "Corals,corals,corals-they are as fascinating as candle lights." PHYTO4LIFE Last edited by phyto4life; 12-18-2011 at 12:18 AM. |