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#31
03-13-2011, 11:53 PM
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sadly, my powder blue succumbed... your butterfly may also. I have come to the conclusion that the experts are right: there is no magic bullet for marine ich other than removing all the fish from the display tank, leaving it fishless for at least two months (or more), and treating all the fish in a QT tank during that time with copper meds.
i just hope i do not see a single speck of ich on any of the other fish! so far, the powder blue was the onyl fish in the tank to show ANY sign!
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125 gallon reef, vertex 200 lights, 40 gallon sump/refugium, 2 Deltec skimmers, Mag 12 return pump, Koralia 4 Wavemaker. (125 gallon freshwater discus planted tank. 40 gallon discus spawning tank, 35 gallon discus spawning tank) 
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#32
03-13-2011, 11:56 PM
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Something is stressing it out big time but it does not sound like it could be another fish. How are your water parameters & temp? Do your lights come on all at once, hard start? Or do they gradually come on? Just thinking outside the box as it seems like something is some what shocking him.
Would stray voltage case him to stress?
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Feed the bear goodies, make a new friend, don't feed the bear............... 8' - 165gal Reef DIY LED's Build 2012 Nano Contest Winner Febuary 2013 POTM Winner 300 gal + 60 gal Complete DIY Build
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#33
03-14-2011, 12:09 AM
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Quote:
Quote:
SG: 1.026 Amm: 0 ppm pH: ~8.4 Nit/Phos: 0 ppm Alk: 9 dKH Calc: 420 ppm Temp: 79 F I have a grounding probe for stray voltages. My only thought was the change in tank size. He came from another reefer that had a 125G system with lots of fish. Maybe the downsize in digs and few friends might be bothering him?
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#34
03-14-2011, 01:09 AM
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This is definitely a curious situation, I am out of ideas.
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Feed the bear goodies, make a new friend, don't feed the bear............... 8' - 165gal Reef DIY LED's Build 2012 Nano Contest Winner Febuary 2013 POTM Winner 300 gal + 60 gal Complete DIY Build
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#35
03-14-2011, 01:27 AM
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You and me both, big guy. There are times when it seems totally relaxed (ie. when he's playing with me or when he's not covered with ich) or he seems really twitchy and irritated and swims up and down the glass (when he's covered with ich). I have no idea...
Like I said, my only guess is then change in tank size...
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#36
03-14-2011, 01:48 AM
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Have you tried to add a cleaner wrasse? I added on a few months back and just recently got a Scribbled Rabbit that had a little ick. Once he was into my tank te ick got worse but within a day mt cleaner had it all cleaned up.
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Feed the bear goodies, make a new friend, don't feed the bear............... 8' - 165gal Reef DIY LED's Build 2012 Nano Contest Winner Febuary 2013 POTM Winner 300 gal + 60 gal Complete DIY Build
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#37
03-14-2011, 02:47 AM
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thats not completely true first of all if you would have practised safe buyng you wouldnt be in this boat by that i mean observing the fish before buying for disease and watching it easily take food if that passes then observe some more. fish should be added in certain orders to eleiminate stress of new homes and bullys..... some fish make the transition easily while some do not....some need the food a mature system provides while some not so much....powder blues are ich magnets and most will say stay away untill you belive you can keep one healthy or the system is large enough for it to feel "safe". with this fish i would start with hyposalinity given their track record.......but as youve already added it to your system your only answer now is a fallow system and to put the remaining fish in hyposalinity....8 weeks to be safe.......safe buying is a great start, never impulse buy,never rescue,never let a fish with a bad rap hit your tank untill your well read up on it. didnt mean to come off harsh but copper imo is a very last effort as it kills sometimes as easy and as fast as ich can there are other meds that are effective besides copper....some even reef safe  .cheers!!!
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#38
03-14-2011, 04:16 AM
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I don't actually need lectures, but thanks for the thought. the word succumbed in this context means died. And yes, I know all the stuff you've listed--I've been keeping salt tanks since before people in North America even knew you could keep live corals!(and to this day i feel FOWLR tanks miss out on a lot!)-- and even taking all the precautions possible, you can still get a bout of ich in your tank.
All it really takes is introduction of a new coral that may have a few stray trodonts on the rock it's attached to. If you read my post, it clearly says the tang was the only fish to show any sign of ich. In two months of recurring bouts of ich, it was the only fish to show ich-- the others, not a single spot. so the tank, minus the now dead tang, appears as healthy as ever. Needless to say, I will be watching the other fish as closely as I have been for some time. I disagree with you regarding copper. It has to be VERY carefully administered, yes. Nothing, absolutely, nothing, that you use in the way of equipment with a QT tank in which you use copper can be permitted to come in contact with your display tank. But it remains the gold standard for guaranteed ich cure. I would love to know the brand names of the "other meds" you mention that are reef safe and that work. If you mean Kick Ich-- HAH! might as well shred twenty dollar bills into your tank for all the good THAT stuff does (I used it once about two years ago. Useless.) a PS re cleaner wrasses: it is now commonly accpeted among the experts that cleaner wrasses do NOT clean up ich. They clean up the damaged and dead surface skin that's been damaged by the ich. They do not actually clean off the ich spots.
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125 gallon reef, vertex 200 lights, 40 gallon sump/refugium, 2 Deltec skimmers, Mag 12 return pump, Koralia 4 Wavemaker. (125 gallon freshwater discus planted tank. 40 gallon discus spawning tank, 35 gallon discus spawning tank)
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#39
03-14-2011, 10:56 PM
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so let me get this straight your saying: i disagree with you regarding copper. It has to be VERY carefully administered, yes. Nothing, absolutely, nothing, that you use in the way of equipment with a QT tank in which you use copper can be permitted to come in contact with your display tank. hummm so it isnt harmfull your saying but yet it has to be "very" carefully administered????? wow cause thats not strange.... all corals should also be dipped and you should never use the water your coras come in....so there are ways to ensure it doesnt hit your tank. i have used paraguard with success with garlic soaked foods , never harmed my reef or inverts but it can be lethal to invertabrates, its def not as strong as copper but like stated it has worked for me for a hippo i was treating for a friend. i wasnt trying to lecture but you obviously are not looking at the big picture and are stating publically that copper is the only cure when you obviously havent done squat all research...if you had you would know alot of reefers try to stay away from copper... so heres the big picture you bought a fish who is known to have ich ...they are ich magnets.... you didnt quarantine and now have the ich in your system and it is in your system i guarantee it and are now trying to say copper is the only cure???... if you noticed the ich on your tang for 2 mths and never did anything then you only have yourself to blame a last minute effort dont help much to fish not strong enough to go through the treatment.....that 2 mths was your cure and you didnt take it...soooo ya!! I don't actually need lectures, but thanks for the thought. the word succumbed in this context means died. And yes, I know all the stuff you've listed--I've been keeping salt tanks since before people in North America even knew you could keep live corals. so if you know all the stuff listed then why not do hyposalinity or have a hospital tank set up , why wait two months before treating your fish, why state that the tang is the only fish to have ich when you know its in your tank and other fish can get it.... if you want ich to stay away there are ways to not have it like i said buy only fish you have watched for health, treat all fish for parasites and even quarantine fish for hyposalinity, make sure your new fish readily eats food and is stress free from bullys and other variables like lights, yourself,sounds,electricity....etc etc etc... dont overstock or get fish to big for your tank and try to stay away from fish who are known to carry ich like alot of tangs. your making out like copper is a guaranteed cure and that since youve "been keeping salt tanks since before people in North America even knew you could keep live corals!" that your exempt from new learnings....well i got bad news for ya there.....your always gonna learn or your always gonna fail cheers and good luck with the new tang  ....
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#40
03-14-2011, 11:37 PM
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Now you are just being a mannerless lout-- one who apparently can't read.
I said copper "remains the gold standard" for curing ich. I did NOT say, or even suggest or hint, that copper is the only cure! I said Kick Ich did nothing in my tank a few years ago. I did NOT say copper was not harmful: i said nothing about its relative harmfulness or harmlessness. I said copper must be very, very carefully administered. That in itself should be sufficient indication for anyone with half a brain that I was pretty clearly inferring (you know the meaning of the word infer?) that copper is inherently dangerous. You also suggest I did nothing for two months. Where, precisely, do you get that idea??? Stating that I have been keeping salt tanks for that long by no means suggests I have not continued to learn during the entire time I have kept tanks. That you would suggest that is both ignorant and insulting. And guess what: I did ALL the things you list so pompously as necessary to keep a healthy tank before introducing that tang. You seem to be under the impression I just ran out, impulsively bought it and threw it in my reef along with gallons of water from various other infested tanks, and maybe a bunch of coral I didn't bother acclimating properly. From exactly what basis do you draw that conclusion? You seem to be under the impression you know everything there is to know about ich and reef tanks. There are plenty of professionals and hobbyist reef experts out there who don't consider hyposalinity a first line of defense against ich. And I have done plenty of research constantly through the years, as more is learned about reefing, new products are developed, and we begin to understand more about what affects our reefs and how and why--, not "squat all." You, sir, are an ignorant, rude jerk. Your advice will be taken in that context.
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125 gallon reef, vertex 200 lights, 40 gallon sump/refugium, 2 Deltec skimmers, Mag 12 return pump, Koralia 4 Wavemaker. (125 gallon freshwater discus planted tank. 40 gallon discus spawning tank, 35 gallon discus spawning tank)
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