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  #31  
Old 03-07-2009, 03:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Trigger Man View Post
so maybe the lighting period has to be varied here and there, just like how it happens in nature with seasons.
Yes, very interesting discussion. The photo period for corals, since most are found very close to the equator should be relatively constant through the year, not seasonal.

But...what will vary is intensity from day to day to account for cloud free, cloudy and rainy days.

Currently I have been running actinic 12 hours, hallide 10 hours, moonlights, 4 hours. Some of my corals seem to be losing a bit of colour.

So here is what I am thinking of shifting to in my photoperiod:

Actinincs: 9.5 hrs per day
Moons: 4 hrs per day
Hallide: Sat/Sun: 7.5 hrs
Monday: 5.5 hours
Tuesday: 3.5 hours
Wed: 0 hours
Thursday: 3.5 hours
Friday: 5.5 hours

The additional benefits are less chance for the tank to overheat, less evaporation and fewer algae issues.

Thoughts?
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  #32  
Old 03-07-2009, 03:32 PM
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Who is Doug?

Man...I am getting really confused now.


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  #33  
Old 03-07-2009, 03:34 PM
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LOL Doug!!!

Oscar, that's a whole lotta pain in the butt, but if you have the time for it, or some sort of controller that will do that for you, I would be interested to see the results. However, I doubt it would make any more difference than just lowering the photo period to a steady number.
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Old 03-07-2009, 03:34 PM
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Exactly, so why don't you two go make a thread that you can scrap it out instead of using this one? This thread is an interesting topic.

Mods? Would be nice if you could clean this thread up please.




I wonder also how effective this cutback photoperiod would be for people who don't have supplimental lighting, or lack the ability to turn certain bulbs on an off independently. Like, say my 33g tank which has 2 T5s which are on for 11 hours a day (I think lol). Seeing as they aren't overly intense, I'm wondering if a cutback photoperiod would be beneficial or detrimental. I'm looking to add a MH to the setup, so eventually it will be a moot point for me, but in the case of others whose lighting isn't overly intense, I wonder if a longer photo period would be more or less beneficial. The same that I wonder if a tank with 250w halides would need a longer photo period than that same tank with 400w halides over it? So, in simple terms without all this thinking out loud (lol), does PAR/PPFD play into the equation?
My tank actually has no supplemental lighting. So its literally both 400 watt 20K MH come on at 3PM and both are off at 9PM. I would say PPFD does come into play for sure. My PPFD is actually quite low though based on Sanjays testing.

For me, its working out so well right now, I can't imagine changing. I see my corals and fish all day long, 6 hours under bright light and about 12 hours under room light (my room is very open and bright most days). My power bill is down, no algae or cyano anymore, corals look better than ever. Can't complain.
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Old 03-07-2009, 03:36 PM
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Oh yeah...

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Old 03-07-2009, 03:37 PM
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Exactly, so why don't you two go make a thread that you can scrap it out instead of using this one? This thread is an interesting topic.

Mods? Would be nice if you could clean this thread up please.




I wonder also how effective this cutback photoperiod would be for people who don't have supplimental lighting, or lack the ability to turn certain bulbs on an off independently. Like, say my 33g tank which has 2 T5s which are on for 11 hours a day (I think lol). Seeing as they aren't overly intense, I'm wondering if a cutback photoperiod would be beneficial or detrimental. I'm looking to add a MH to the setup, so eventually it will be a moot point for me, but in the case of others whose lighting isn't overly intense, I wonder if a longer photo period would be more or less beneficial. The same that I wonder if a tank with 250w halides would need a longer photo period than that same tank with 400w halides over it? So, in simple terms without all this thinking out loud (lol), does PAR/PPFD play into the equation?

Good point on the supplement lighting
I remember someone preaching it on RC, then find out he ran 4 110w vho lights, besides his 250w halides.

I run mine for 10hrs. and my useless actinics for 12. However I only have a single 150w. I may cut it back a bit and see, esp; after I start UltraLith.
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Old 03-07-2009, 03:39 PM
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I am not at all harassing Laurier (we know each other outside the forum). Is this not the reason why we post here? To gain insight and benefit from others experience(s)? I am just saying that he is making changes to the way he is running his system based on the fact that he feels the light is too intense for his sps.( 6x39w HOT5s???). I am just trying to make the point that his system is very young and this fact is more likely the cause of some of his sps loosing color.

Reducing the lighting cycle will darken the colors of sps. The coral reacts to the lack of light by darkening itself in an attempt to absorb as much of the available light as it can. Much like the difference between wearing a black shirt or a white shirt in the summertime(mmmmm summer).
You need to do some reading my friend...

People are finding corals coloring up, not darkening at all. They have been actually looking for the ideal photo period based on photoinhibition. This will allow the corals to have to work a lot LESS and have more time to grow/color up. Much like when you go to the gym, you are not building muscle while lifting but afterwards while your muscles are being repaired. You can really overdo it by staying in the gym too long. Corals can also get very tired under long periods of light. They actually then can darken. Since corals store energy during the day and grow at night plus can only utilize a certain amount of light to begin with, long photoperiods, especially in our tank (which are stuck at high noon) are unnecessary and sometimes harmful. Not harmful in the sense that you are going to kill corals but harmful in the sense that you can slow down growth and coloration. Although to some thats not a bad thing...

Certainly some coral may darken under lesser photoperiods but to claim they WILL darken as you have is kind of a broad statement. Perhaps look at the results on RC for a short photoperiod. You may want to start with the TOTM from a few months back.

http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2009-01/totm/index.php


Looks incredible to me...Not too dark at all.

Last edited by GreenSpottedPuffer; 03-07-2009 at 03:50 PM.
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  #38  
Old 03-07-2009, 03:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Myka View Post
LOL Doug!!!

However, I doubt it would make any more difference than just lowering the photo period to a steady number.
We'll see. If it reduces the algae situation, and the amount of evaporation then that is worth the time.
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  #39  
Old 03-07-2009, 03:40 PM
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Originally Posted by GreenSpottedPuffer View Post
My tank actually has no supplemental lighting. So its literally both 400 watt 20K MH come on at 3PM and both are off at 9PM. I would say PPFD does come into play for sure. My PPFD is actually quite low though based on Sanjays testing.

For me, its working out so well right now, I can't imagine changing. I see my corals and fish all day long, 6 hours under bright light and about 12 hours under room light (my room is very open and bright most days). My power bills down, no algae or cyano anymore, corals look better than ever. Can't complain.
Ya, 20K really reduces PAR. Just wondering...why wouldn't you use some supplimental actinics, and change to a lower Kelvin on your halides? I would think you would get better growth just based on that as coral growth is increased with lower Kelvin due to photosynthesis increaasing.

For you guys saying you want to see your fish...do you guys stay home all day? Pfff...I don't like you guys anymore. Wish I could do that! Heck, I haven't even seen my home since December...oh wait, I don't even have a home anymore.
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  #40  
Old 03-07-2009, 03:54 PM
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Ya, 20K really reduces PAR. Just wondering...why wouldn't you use some supplimental actinics, and change to a lower Kelvin on your halides? I would think you would get better growth just based on that as coral growth is increased with lower Kelvin due to photosynthesis increaasing.

For you guys saying you want to see your fish...do you guys stay home all day? Pfff...I don't like you guys anymore. Wish I could do that! Heck, I haven't even seen my home since December...oh wait, I don't even have a home anymore.
Because the goal of my new tank was to use as little equipment as possible and I am super happy with growth as of now. As for major equipment, I have the two halides, skimmer, controller and ZEO reactor. I also have no canopy to put other lights in. Trying to keep the real sleek and clean look.

I may go back to 14K next bulb change but I doubt it.

More growth in my case is not what I am looking for anyways, its an added bonus. I am after color.
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