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#31
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![]() I can't take the pressure!
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THE BARQUARIUM: 55 gallon cube - 50 lbs LR - ASM G3 skimmer - 30 Gallon sump - 22 Gallon refugium / frag tank - 4x 24 watt HO T5's - Mag 9.5 return - Pin Point PH monitor - 400 watt XM 20K MH in Lumenarc reflector - Dual stage GFO/NO3 media reactor - 6 stage RODI auto top up -Wavemaster Pro running 3 Koralia 2's. Fully stocked with fish, corals and usually some fine scotch http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=55041 |
#32
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![]() Quote:
It sure is nice not having to worry about overfilling the reservoir or saltmixing barrel. Like you say when it's full and the float in either container shuts off the solenoid I can shut the valve to either one later without a spill.
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Brian ____________________________________________ 220g inwall 48"x36"x30" 110g mangrove refug/sump Poison Dart Frog Vivarium |
#33
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![]() Please don't yell at me Tony, but ofted not to do the reservior. I just can't bring myself to fill one every week or what ever. I had to go automated.
So I got the sprinkler timer like you said, and found the fittings to reduce it to 1/4" ![]() ![]() I have it set to come on every 2 hours for 10 minutes. When I get home from work I can adjust the duration or intervals as required. This whole thing has gotten completely rediculous. My friend has the identicle RO setup but with the tank, and his came from Aquasafe already set up to shut off when the tank was full. I should have gone that route 2 years ago.
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THE BARQUARIUM: 55 gallon cube - 50 lbs LR - ASM G3 skimmer - 30 Gallon sump - 22 Gallon refugium / frag tank - 4x 24 watt HO T5's - Mag 9.5 return - Pin Point PH monitor - 400 watt XM 20K MH in Lumenarc reflector - Dual stage GFO/NO3 media reactor - 6 stage RODI auto top up -Wavemaster Pro running 3 Koralia 2's. Fully stocked with fish, corals and usually some fine scotch http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=55041 |
#34
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![]() Hi,
What is the advantage of the sprinkler timer vs a float valve? Sorry if you addressed this earlier in the thread (I'm at work..didn't read the whole thing) |
#35
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![]() The pressure tank scenario may have the same problem. It may shut off when it's full, but how far will it empty before it turns on again? Unless he's manually turning it off and on as needed. Ohhh wait, Ok that's what he's doing. Yeah, so basically *your friend has a reservoir and that's why it works*.
Filling the reservoir is a pain? I'm sorry dude but .. I'm sorry I think that really is lame. You open a valve to fill it, the shut off kit turns it off when it's full so it doesn't spill, you turn off the valve manually later when you think of it. It is not hard!!!!!!!
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-- Tony My next hobby will be flooding my basement while repeatedly banging my head against a brick wall and tearing up $100 bills. Whee! |
#36
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![]() Ignore my post..just reading the details now...
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#37
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![]() Quote:
For myself, having to remember to shut of my filter when the reservior is filled is no different than having to remember to shut it off when my drinking water jugs were full. Even if I had float valves in place in the reservior to avoid spillage, the filter is still dumping waste water down the drain as the water meter ticks away. So this is really the best way for me to save water and for piece of mind.
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THE BARQUARIUM: 55 gallon cube - 50 lbs LR - ASM G3 skimmer - 30 Gallon sump - 22 Gallon refugium / frag tank - 4x 24 watt HO T5's - Mag 9.5 return - Pin Point PH monitor - 400 watt XM 20K MH in Lumenarc reflector - Dual stage GFO/NO3 media reactor - 6 stage RODI auto top up -Wavemaster Pro running 3 Koralia 2's. Fully stocked with fish, corals and usually some fine scotch http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=55041 |
#38
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![]() The only way what you're saying would make sense, is if you *didn't* get the shut off kit I told you about 3 pages ago. Is that the case? See, I thought you DID get the shutoff kit, but were still concerned because it was turning on and off frequently, because even though waste water isn't going down the drain when shut off, it was still turning on and off very often.
This is because the float valve only knows when to shut off. The water level drops 1mm, or maybe even less, and that's enough to open the float valve. So the water drops 1mm, the pressure drops in the RO/DI output line, the solenoid kicks off, the RO/DI is on. 10 seconds later, the float valve is back up again, the line repressurizes, the RO/DI shuts off, and we wait until the water level drops again that 1mm. This is *awesome* for your reef tank, because the salinity doesn't waver by the slightest. But, meanwhile, the RO/DI filter is working it's butt off. This is why you want a "buffer" between the float valve and the source. A reservoir is this buffer. It releases water as it's needed, so the tank gets it's water on demand, but, the RO/DI doesn't have to do more work than is needed. Ie., the output rate is reasonably steady-state, but the input is on-demand. What you're talking about what your friend has, he has the shutoff kit, so to speak (it may not be a "kit" per se, it was probably part of the RO/DI package). The pressure tank is the reservoir. It works on a slightly different principle, it has an air bladder inside which compresses as the tank fills, thus storing pressure as it releases the water. What I'm not sure of is, how much water can be bled off before the pressure starts to drop. If it can handle a couple gallons at a time before releasing the pressure, then that might be buffer enough. I once toyed around with a small pressure tank but it could not handle more than about a gallon, possibly even less, before it experienced a pressure drop. So it does depend on the tank a little bit I guess. So you see, if you had the shut off kit, with a reservoir - what happens is you put a float valve in the reservoir. This float valve shuts off your RO/DI so you don't "have to remember to shut it off". The thing is, you will remember eventually, but in the meantime, your reservoir isn't overflowing everywhere (and you're not dumping water down the drain). Basically it's a low tech, low cost, fail safe mechanism. No reliance on electricity, and yet, full blown automation. But -- it only works if you have the shut off kit. If you don't have that - well then - yes I agree - you took something that was supposed to be simple and made it completely ridiculous (are you sure you're not an engineer? ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
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-- Tony My next hobby will be flooding my basement while repeatedly banging my head against a brick wall and tearing up $100 bills. Whee! Last edited by Delphinus; 07-18-2007 at 09:21 PM. |
#39
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![]() Everything you've said is correct. The filter was working overtime because of the overly sensitive float valve. I think I might be misunderstanding the whole reservior concept, perhaps I need to see yours to know how effective it is.
Anyway, whats done is done, and in time for me to go on vacation later this summer. BTW, what are you doing from Aug 24th to Sept 9th? ![]()
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THE BARQUARIUM: 55 gallon cube - 50 lbs LR - ASM G3 skimmer - 30 Gallon sump - 22 Gallon refugium / frag tank - 4x 24 watt HO T5's - Mag 9.5 return - Pin Point PH monitor - 400 watt XM 20K MH in Lumenarc reflector - Dual stage GFO/NO3 media reactor - 6 stage RODI auto top up -Wavemaster Pro running 3 Koralia 2's. Fully stocked with fish, corals and usually some fine scotch http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=55041 |
#40
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![]() All ribbing aside, the sprinkler valve does have some merit. I wish I had one even though I have a large reservoir.
I'll be around those dates of your vacation, if you need a tanksitter. I actually will be away for 3 weeks (starting next weekend to August 19), my Dad's gonna come feed the fish but I could probably use a backup contact for him if you're around in that timeframe?
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-- Tony My next hobby will be flooding my basement while repeatedly banging my head against a brick wall and tearing up $100 bills. Whee! |