54 gallon perc tank - Page 4

SeaHorse_Fanatic · #31 09-20-2005, 08:58 PM

Putting in aragonite sand in the tank will turn it eventually into a live sand bed anyways

This is good because if you get sand sifters, like some gobies, sand stars, etc., they'll need a good live sand bed to stay healthy & well-fed. I have a yellow watchman & twin spot gobies & I love watching them sift the sand for me. You'll also want to keep it at only 1 or 2" deep (at least that seems to be the recommended depth nowadays). I too don't like the look of a bare bottom, but I know many other reefers (especially SPS lovers) swear by bb.

Anthony

dunl · #32 09-20-2005, 09:29 PM

Wouldn't any type of sand eventually become a live sand bed? I've read the pros and cons before, but I just can't see a sand bed not becoming "live" eventually.

Is the controversy just for it to become "live enough" to support these sifters?

SeaHorse_Fanatic · #33 09-20-2005, 10:05 PM

Live mostly refers to the bacteria from your LR colonizing the sand, turning it into LS. Ideally, if you can get some old LS from an established tank that has pods, mysis shrimp & other creatures living in it already, these will help populate the tank & feed your fish. Aragonite sand is usually used because it keeps your calcium & pH levels higher, which makes life easier for you & will especially help if/when you decide to add corals. The vast majority of sw fish are coming into the LFS within a week or so of being captured from the tropical seas & so many will be a bit finicky about eating flake or frzn foods, so it is useful to have some live food (like pods & mysis) running around in the tank.

Anthony

Richer · #34 09-20-2005, 10:17 PM

If you like the look of a sandbed, but don't want the chance that it can become a detritus trap, you can always just have sand in areas that will be seen, then lightly vacuum it regularly and replace the sand as it slowly gets removed over time. Thats what this guy did and it seems to work... then again, not many of us have a tank as large as his

. Still... something to consider.

-Rich

dunl · #35 09-20-2005, 11:05 PM

I have a fairly deep bed in my cichlid tank, but they dig it up a lot, sometimes burrowing right to the bottom. Becoming a dirt trap is a concern, so I would probably just go with a low level one on the bottom.

As for the calcium, the 40lb piece of limestone I have in there should help with that as much as it usually helps to buffer my cichlid tanks, I would think?

Skimmerking · #36 09-21-2005, 12:40 AM

nice tank love the look of the stand you will do good just take your time man.
FOr lighting i would go with maybe a set of T-5's and their ballast or if ya want to you can buy the Hagen glo MAT the 20-30-40 w its a cheap way to run the lighting you to have ..

Trust me i have tried losts of ligting and like the glo mats. and they take just the NO lighting bulbs.

pm your number ok we can talk ok

mike

dunl · #37 10-19-2005, 02:11 AM

Here's an updated pic...

reeferaddict · #38 10-19-2005, 06:55 AM

Limestone would help buffer your FW tank because it will actually dissolve rapidly in FW at a more neutral PH... in SW we want our PH high enough to support calcification... conditions not condusive to dissolving limestone. The only reason you will get dissolving with aragonite sand is because the PH is lower in the deeper layers.

dunl · #39 10-19-2005, 11:47 AM

What PH level should it be at?

reeferaddict · #40 10-19-2005, 04:25 PM

Natural sea water has a pH of 8.2. Anywhere between 8.1 - 8.4 is fine, though some minor fluctuations out of this range can also be acceptable.

Keeping alkalinity at 8 - 11 dKH will keep your pH in check. If you need info on alkalinity/chemistry, read up on Beverly's links, it's stuff you'll want to know.