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#31
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![]() Again as your not seeing the picture and yes I would agree that smaller more consistent water changes are better then less frequent water changes but that's not what I'm saying ....water changes are a poor way to export nutrients ....all you've done is diluted a small amount of nutrients that will likely be replaced and then some by next week's small dilution , I'll get you something in return once I'm not on my phone but the idea of all this IS NOT to remove nitrates and phosphates it's more to export the build up of metals and replace elements ....the removal of nutrients is a small bonus bot the sole purpose ; )
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#32
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![]() Sorry Double post
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#33
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![]() Anyone remember the apples and oranges math lol add an orange take away 90% of an apple etc etc. This isn't a new topic at all, so the question isn't does water changes need to happen i think we can all agree it does but not for the sole purpose of removing nutrients that's just expensive and unnessary
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#34
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![]() So back to the coraline lol if it doesn't use up much dkh then why am I dosing over 100mls a day in a zoanthid only sysyem system ? I use h2ocean salt and do on average 25% water changes and that salt has a high dkh in bucket of around 10. No sand no rock no hard corals just egg crate and tons of zoanthids ....and coraline of course
I have to dose to keep coraline alive or my alk drops fast , it's sad but it's fact. Even if I scrape and make the tanks new which I just did it doesn't stop it for long coraline for me grows fast in weeks I have a tank covered again but if I stop the dosing then my alk and cal levels won't stay up
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#35
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![]() Coralline will suck up butt loads of alkalinity (and calcium to match). Most of my clients' tanks need alkalinity supplementation and most of them are only lightly stocked with corals.
Last edited by Myka; 06-06-2015 at 04:25 AM. |
#36
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#37
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You keep a large bucket of mixed salt and a pitcher. Every couple days, scoop a pitcher out of your tank, then replace it with a pitcher from your mixed barrel... Easy peezy... You should also the consider the cost, space taken and time taken to build your 3 minute 50 gallon system. It's not for everyone...even if it's a superior option. Last edited by gobytron; 06-06-2015 at 04:57 PM. |
#38
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![]() Reefwars, unless you can show me some documentation where all of a sudden water changes have gone from being great for nutrient export to poor to somehow poor, I'll have to chalk it up to your opinion.
Maybe one that's based on lfs info more so than anything else? Good theory to sell more equipment. I have posted a couple that indicate they are excellent means for removing them....with the added benefit of replacing consumed elements and trace metals. For goodness sakes, just google water change nutrient export and enjoy the wonders of the Internet..you don't have to take it from me. You can see the same said by multiple, respected reef enthusiasts. Has there been some new research on this? Please post the articles, as I hAve, that as you say, state your claim as scientific fact. I'll also reiterate Of course coralline will consume dkh (yes, obviously calcium too). No one is refuting this well known fact. It won't be an issue until you have lots of coralline with alk and calcium in perfect balance which promotes both their consumption. If you're just starting a tank, as is the op, it is a non issue unless your rocks are extremely coralline covered. Regular water changes would and are more than enough to subsist your coralline growth and then some in a newly established system. Especially a smaller one. Buying a doser on a new tank because you're worried about your corallines consumption is silly. Sorry. Last edited by gobytron; 06-06-2015 at 05:02 PM. |
#39
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![]() You've been practicing that math stuff. Good
![]() Wonderful thing about this hobby, we all get to do things differently. You make small changes, I'll make big. Easy peasy.
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#40
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I'm switching to medium water changes. |