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#21
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![]() At this stage, it looks like the fish in your QT have developed a certain amount immunity to the parasite, which is why you're no longer seeing any active pustules. Acquired immunity has been demonstrated in a bunch of fish in the literature, but the parasite is definitely still in your system.
If you have no plans of going through the extremely intensive and time consuming process of taking the remaining fish out and treating them in QT while fallowing your tank for 10-12 weeks, your best bet for re-stocking is to not buy any fish that are known to be highly susceptible to ich, as it's in your system. IE, don't buy any more tangs. |
#22
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What people don't realize is that there is often different strenght of ich and some strain might be mild while other are very strong and active and will multiply like crazy and overcome any fish, stressed or not. It's the same thing with bacterias. You can have some vibrios bacterias in an aquarium and it wont affect anything but given the right conditions those bacterias could go wild and cause brown jelly on many corals. Ich is one of the major fish killer. I think it kills more fish than any other disease put together, velvet included. It's just too common and people often don't do a thing about it and let their fish die. Quote:
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_________________________ More fish die from human stupidity than any other disease... |
#23
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![]() You don't get it? well that's because it is not the right way to do things. It is not when the fish are full of ich and on their way out that it is a good time to treat, it is when they arrive and relatively healthy. That's why quarantine is so important, so that one can treat sick fish either as prevention or at least on time.
Of course if the fish are dying and breathing already so fast and still suffocating, catching them might finish them off...but if they are at that point they will probably die anyway. Fish are strong, very strong. Imagine the traveling in small bags that they have to do? Problem is that ich is attacking their gills and they suffocate. That's what kill the fish, not being handled, not being cought, not being transfered between tanks. The second killer of fish in quarantine is bad water quality and ammonia. Those are very easily handled with products like Amquel. Quote:
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_________________________ More fish die from human stupidity than any other disease... |
#24
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![]() I got the same problem like urs. My yellow tang start scratch ing with sand and rocks. I start giving garlic food and set the 15w aqua uv sterlizer. Lets see what happend. I know uv sterilizer wont grabe ich from fish. But what ever will go in. Will die. And also I got skunk cleaner shrimp.
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#25
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![]() I am not taking about pre-ich QT over there but about post-ich QT; just thought about clearing it up
![]() Yah I do have problem understanding many school of thoughts in this hobby ![]() ![]() Quote:
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You wouldn't want to see my tank. I don't use fancy equipment and I am a noob ![]() |
#26
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![]() ^^^ Wisers slow clap for mrhasan ^^^^^
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#27
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![]() here's food for thought.....wildlife biologists have long known that a certain percentage of caught and released game fish die from lactic acid build up due to the stress of being caught.....why are our fish any different?.....I QTed for a while and had no better results than just putting the new fish in the display.....every time we put a net to our fish we cause lactic acid build up that could prove to be fatal.....I feel that playing musical tanks with a fish is putting it through more than is necessary......if you are observant and make good decisions buying your fish you will greatly lessen the chance of introducing something nasty....
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260g mixed reef, 105g sump, water blaster 7000 return, Bubble King SM 300 skimmer, Aqua Controller Jr, 4 radions, 3 Tunze 6055s,1 tunze 6065, 2 Vortech MP40s, Vortech MP20, Tunze ATO, GHL SA2 doser, 2 TLF reactors (1 carbon, 1 rowa). http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=50034 . Tank Video here http://www.vimeo.com/2304609 and here http://www.vimeo.com/16591694 |
#28
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#29
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![]() If you don't quarantine new fish, you are actually putting them through more stress, I believe. Besides the disease prevention, while in the QT new fish have a chance to be acclimatized to your DT water (prior to the final transfer) and new foods. They then have a chance to become healthy and strong before going into your DT.
Otherwise, if thrown into the DT immediately, they may have to face hostile existing tank inhabitants (like my yellow tang) while in a weakened state, and not used to eating the new foods. If that isn't stress for a fish (and the aquarist watching all this), I don't know what is. Moving existing stock from an infected DT to a QT is a whole different story, though. My problem would be just in trying to catch them. So yes, I would first try to feed them well and hope their health and immune system carry them through. But the real solution, which I keep preaching, is prevention, by QT'ing new fish. That is the best for new fish, and for protecting your DT. And it is so easy, which is why I don't readily accept lame excuses for not doing it. I have a 30g QT running all the time, with a canister filter, and water changes are done using DT waste water (from changes), so it costs me next to nothing to keep running and available when I need it. And I use it a lot, actually, sometimes for new shrimp and corals, too (no hypo for them, of course). It is a lot more work to maintain a refugium, actually, as I have done that, too. Not QTing new fish is like playing Russian roulette with their lives. 5 out of 6 times (reality is more like 50/50 though), they might get away with it. But when they don't, the fish have to suffer (and be stressed) with ich. I just don't think that is very responsible, IMO.
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Reef Pilot's Undersea Oasis: http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/sho...d.php?t=102101 Frags FS: http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/sho...d.php?t=115022 Solutions are easy. The real difficulty lies in discovering the problem. |
#30
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![]() Quote:
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260g mixed reef, 105g sump, water blaster 7000 return, Bubble King SM 300 skimmer, Aqua Controller Jr, 4 radions, 3 Tunze 6055s,1 tunze 6065, 2 Vortech MP40s, Vortech MP20, Tunze ATO, GHL SA2 doser, 2 TLF reactors (1 carbon, 1 rowa). http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=50034 . Tank Video here http://www.vimeo.com/2304609 and here http://www.vimeo.com/16591694 |