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#21
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![]() To your original question, I would put in the additional LR now and let that cycle again... even though the rock may be "cured", some life will likely still die off during transport unless is transported with water and all (but even then). Things like sponges on the rock will die very quickly once exposed to air, and when put into you tank, it'll likely start a new cycle.
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#22
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![]() Yea I've decided I'm going to go slow and just get a clean up crew and some nice live rock with coral line on it first so I don't end up killing everything when purchased as a bundle deal even tho the price is amazing lol. I did some research and I think the reason why my tank still shows 0.25 ppm of ammonia is because I used tap water with a declorinator that I made instead of RO water. Other forums say the use of prime will show some ammonia but it actually is harmless
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#23
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![]() I notice you're in Vancouver, not sure which water shed you're fed from but I'm in the Coquitlam area and our water is pretty good (still not as good as RO/DI). You can pick up a system from eBay pretty cheap if you want, but with the water meters being installed, it may be pretty costly. Some systems use 3 to 4 times the water to make a gallon of RO/DI.
My buddy uses a simple carbon block and DI resin in series with good results and doesn't waste any water.
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#24
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![]() Is just leaving the water out for few hours good enough?
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#25
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![]() Not sure if it's good enough, but what I would do at minimum is make the salt water and throw a power head/pump and heater in it and run it 24 hours, the circulation and aeration will make the water better for sure...
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#26
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![]() Yup I do that but just for few hrs. Also I went to the lfs and got my water tested and it had 0 ammonia. They told me the API test kit I got is ****ty and gave me wrong readings.
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#27
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![]() Nesslers and salicylate test methods for ammonia will give false positive results when dechlorinators are used
They raise the pH of the test water and cause the total ammonia to become free ammonia, thus giving a positive result where there wasn't free ammonia in the water sample to begin with In my freshwater days I used a Hagen 0-7.3mg/L Nesslers kit and had false positives I switched to the Hagen 0-6.1mg/L Indophenol based test kit and all was good Now that I'm into saltwater, I use Seachem Ammonia Badges, a Seachem Ammonia test kit, and an Elos Ammonia test kit I don't know if Prime affects the Elos kit, but it doesn't affect the Seachem ones As was suggested, if you keep using tap water, let your new saltwater mix for 24 hours with a heater (optional) and powerhead The circulation is enough to off-gas the chlorine and you can then use whatever ammonia kit you like Our water here is pretty clean, but we still have around 8ppm TDS from the tap. Not knowing what that 8 consists of is enough for me to use RO ![]() |