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#21
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![]() Here is one of the tests done on PAR with the following bulbs. I couldn't find the updated list but i will search again when i get hoime for work. I do remeber the UV 454 bulb being below 250 and you can compare that number to the bulbs below. Also look how low the actinic bulbs are.
Aquascience Special 15K 320* DUO 15K 334* 22000K Blue 302* AquaZ Sun Pro 285 Ocean Pro 323 Blue Pro 266 ATI Sun Pro 357 Aquablue 336 Blue Plus 311 Actinic 137 (Old Style) Pro Color 215 vs 300 for a UVL Aquasun in a later test Current Sun Paq Daylight 10K 272 Blue 252 D&D/Giesemann Midday 325 Aquablue 324 Actinic Plus 264 Pure Actinic 157 General Electric GE Daylight 340 GE3000 319* Helios Daylight 309 Super Blue 225 KZ Coral Light 342 Fiji Purple 330 UVL Aqua sun 345 Actinic White 293 Super Actinic 210 75/25 "Aquablue" 254 vs 300 for an Aquasun in a later test. |
#22
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![]() Thanks Chris...that is really good data.
Anybody: 1. Is PAR value additive? 2. Is PAR value more important that LUX 3. If so...what is the optimal amount of PAR required for color and growth of SPS( say in a tank where SPS sit 15in above the light source) ? Last edited by fencer; 10-19-2010 at 05:49 PM. |
#23
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![]() Quote:
I have seen killer tanks running only 4 bulbs but they keep up with their water quality in excellent shape eg. |
#24
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![]() Par is extremely important and corals will not photosynthesis to their full capacity without enough of it, especially sps corals. Lux is just a term for brightness to the human eye while par is “photosynthetic active radiation”. It only takes into consideration the wavelength that corals use for photosynthesis, basically 400nm - 700nm. The lowest par most sps will do well with is 150 and the highest is around 600. I am not saying it can't be done other ways but this is the sweet spot from all of the data I have read which is more then I would like to admit to.
Now I am not trying to start a debate because we all know we can run a reef in many different ways and light is only one important factor. Water quality, stable parameters, etc all make a big deal. But from a lighting perspective, PAR is very important and PAR drops of a cliff the deeper a tank goes. Let’s say the par was 700 at the surface of a 24 inch tank it would probably be 100 at the sand bed with a good t5 fixture and good bulbs. Through in a mediocre t5 fixture and average bulbs and do the math it won’t add up well. |
#25
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![]() If I had the time I would love to prove you wrong Chris. PAR is important, but it is not extremely important. I mean, you can't grow SPS under a spiral fluorescent very well, but you don't need to blast your SPS with as much PAR as many people like to, or think they need to.
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#26
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![]() Myka i do partially agree with you. Some people are too concerned with par but I was just stating what I have read from research articles and test done with Par and coral growth. It is a fact that most sps or corals in fact will grow faster with more light aka higher par numbers. But there is a limit to this, after a certain point they become saturated and photo inhibition will occur and it can be harmful to the coral. 600 par is not that high, and 100 is actually very low. Put a sps frag on your sand bed vs. 4 inch from the surface and see which one looks better and grows faster.
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#27
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![]() Chris, I have only two SPS corals that would handle being 4" from the surface under my lights (a tabling Acro and a Candlelight Acro). They are halides, but the fixture is Chinese and the bulbs are from Home Depot (came with fixture). It is a 36" fixture over a 48" tank too. It has two T5s (UVL Super Actinic and KZ fiji Purple right now). Needless to say, this setup isn't high output by any means. I have Stags and Milles on the sand in my 24" deep tank that have better color there than higher up. All my LPS corals are off to the side away from the halides. My water is crystal clear though, so that makes a huge difference.
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