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  #21  
Old 06-27-2003, 06:27 PM
spikehs spikehs is offline
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it was in the middle of the back piece of glass.
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  #22  
Old 06-27-2003, 07:23 PM
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That sucks Sean, and is pretty odd too. Ours was on foam, so obviously that didn't help in our case. It certainly did seem to be a pressure point.

What shape was the crack, anything like ours?
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  #23  
Old 06-27-2003, 07:27 PM
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actually its pretty similiar, it didn't separate as much as yours, but its got the same arc to it (although it doesn't go all the way to the bottom) I'll grap some pics of it this evening when i get home.
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  #24  
Old 06-27-2003, 07:29 PM
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with all the plugs and bars on the floor i am amazed that nothing electrical shorted...I guess i am going to screw the electrical bars onto the wall now.
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  #25  
Old 06-27-2003, 07:44 PM
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12-24 hours.. bah.. Do it right the first time and you can have water in it within 20 min. lol

Ahh Doug.. that is why you need to hire me to do it for you. Fly me out, food and beer(forget lodging) and we are set.
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  #26  
Old 06-27-2003, 08:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DJ88
12-24 hours.. bah.. Do it right the first time and you can have water in it within 20 min. lol

Darren, that is irresponsible advice..sorry. And it was 24-48 hours wait for a full cure.

From www.cyro.com..

"The initial bond forms in five to ten seconds. Subsequent processing can be carried out after three hours. The bond will achieve high strength in 24 to 48 hours. Strength will continue to build for several weeks."
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  #27  
Old 06-27-2003, 09:17 PM
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anyone know where you can get cheap arcylic 7.89 per square foot is too rich for me (rubbermaid tub here i come!). How would you go about glueing baffels into a rubbermaid anyways, as they do bow a bit?
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  #28  
Old 06-27-2003, 09:31 PM
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Sorry Darren I will have to side with Brad with this one.. Acrylic tank manufactures don't recomend any pressure on a methel chloride joint for 24 to 48 hours MIN. they say while you might get luckey and it will hold togeather it will not reach its full potential of bond strength and could prematurly fail down the road.

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  #29  
Old 06-27-2003, 09:47 PM
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Well then everything I have built over the last few years is due to explode. My new reactor I pressure tested after 30 min. Sump 15. Other reactors were the same. Skimmers, waste collectors. et al.

Now if I were building a tank that was holding a lot more water and was feeling a lot more pressure and highly succeptible to those pressures I would take it much slower. If as well, was built of a lot thicker acrylic than 1/4" then I would wait.

Do it right and ensure that you have a strong bond and multiple angles holding the joint together(ie many sides of a sump, baffles etc, reactor) you will have the structural integrity that is sufficient enough to hold it together.

The only way I have had a leak was due to an imperfect cut made on the acrylic prior to bonding. I haven't ever had anything made of acrylic break. But I guess I should be knocking on wood.

Do it right and you have a strong bond within a short period of time.
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  #30  
Old 06-27-2003, 10:16 PM
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It seems to me, and I only speculate of course (just some random rambings on my part here...), but if the sump conformed perfectly to the inside dimensions of the stand, then this sump-inside-the-stand-idea also leverages some of its strength from the stand, not only the multiple edges and whatnot from the baffles. ...

Which kind of leads me to ...

Quote:
Originally Posted by spikehs
How would you go about glueing baffels into a rubbermaid anyways, as they do bow a bit?
I'm guessing here since I haven't done it myself, but .. Use a lot of silicone, and make an external wooden frame of some sort for the rubbermaid to prevent bowing.
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