I hate my tank! - Page 3

Matt · #21 01-25-2009, 05:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jslaney

Thanks everyone for the Support. I will try and answer the questions in order.
2)I am just using tapwater with no treatment for topups. As I understand it, if you let it sit for 24 hours all the chlorine evaporates off.

Chlorine will leave the water, eventually, but how fast will depend on the volume, surface area, circulation, temperature and starting concentration. No 24-hour rule exists. Likewise, resting the water won't deal with other contaminates. In short, if you're using tapwater (and loads of folks do, with varying success), don't do it without Prime or another quality water conditioner -- or you're just asking for trouble.

fdiddy · #22 01-25-2009, 05:48 PM

I used tap water for a long time, but the TDS outta my tap is 184 - not that bad actually. But my RO/DI is 0... alot better :P Considering a 5g jug to refill at sobeys is around 2 bucks that sounds worth it to me. Good Luck and keep at it. This hobby is VERY satisfying if you put you mind to it.

Tangman · #23 01-25-2009, 07:03 PM

Sorry to be blunt, but if you are not doing water changes/ top offs with RO/Di water all you are doing is feeding the problem. Useing treated tap water or letting it stand is useless, that may have worked with a fresh water tank but it won't work with SW. You can get a TDS meter at a LFS, but better money spent would be on a RO/DI, as others have said, in the SW hobby a RO/DI unit is part of the basic supplies to have a SW tank, and again , sorry to be blunt, but with out one, you will never have any thing but a slimey lagoon

Quote:

Originally Posted by jslaney

.
Conclusions
-Do more water changes
-Get my water level parameters checked at the LFS
-Start treating my top up water
-Consider getting a phosphate remover and RO/DI unit.

Additional questions

1)How do you test of TDS (Total dissolved solids?). Does that not include dissolved calcium. Is that not a good thing.

2)I have read that increased Calcium can be a good thing for stony corals. Why is it bad for Coraline? I am not treating calcium so it must be coming from my sand and water top ups.

If anyone has any other ideas based on my responses, feel free to let me know.

jslaney · #24 01-25-2009, 11:28 PM

So thanks to Syeve's suggestion I went and got my water tested. All I have for specific Grav is a red sea hydrometer. It was reading 1.026 which is perfect as I understand it.

When the very kind fellow at Ocean City tested my water using a refractometer it read as 1.033. So I am guessing that is the biggest problem.

I will still look into getting RO/DI and have allready bought chlorine remover for my top ups.

Lastly thank you for everyones help and I think the lesson here is dont ever trust crappy hydrometers and before you start adding life go get your water double tested.

Jon.

Snaz · #25 01-25-2009, 11:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jslaney

So thanks to Syeve's suggestion I went and got my water tested. All I have for specific Grav is a red sea hydrometer. It was reading 1.026 which is perfect as I understand it.

When the very kind fellow at Ocean City tested my water using a refractometer it read as 1.033. So I am guessing that is the biggest problem.

I will still look into getting RO/DI and have allready bought chlorine remover for my top ups.

Lastly thank you for everyones help and I think the lesson here is dont ever trust crappy hydrometers and before you start adding life go get your water double tested.

Jon.

Certainly the high SG is very bad.

The issue with your top ups is not the chlorine as you already address that by having it sitting out for 24Hr. The issue is the TDS, phosphate, copper and other crap from your tap. STOP PUTTING IN TAPWATER! If you can't get an RO/DI unit then do as I do and get the 20 litre bottles from a reputable water filter company.

Myka · #26 01-25-2009, 11:55 PM

You already have some great advice here. Did your LFS test your water for calcium? Did they get the same results? What brand of salt are you using? Are you using any additives at all? You aren't using Purple Up are you? I would also suggest upping your flow to 15-20x turnover. What types of corals are you wanting to keep? Both softies and LPS corals will do well with that type of turnover. Your low turnover combined with using tap water (+1 for getting an RO/DI and a TDS meter) are likely your biggest issues, not the high salinity. The high salinity would be contributing to the high calcium reading. Oh, and for the record, you can continue to use your hydrometer, just remember that your particular hydrometer is out by 0.007, so aim for 1.019 on your hydrometer, and that should put your sg at 1.026. you can always double check by taking some water to your LFS again.

Check out the guides in my signature, I think you would find a lot of the information in them very helpful.

randallino · #27 01-26-2009, 12:42 AM

May I be frank:
Priority 1 is your water source. I lived in Calgary I know what the water is like it's hard amongst other things. Don't think about it, buy it ....a good RO/DI filter.Po4 shouldn't be an issue with a new system unless you're using live rock from an older system and the water supply.
I hope this helps patience is the key ingredient
FYI
http://www.calgary.ca/docgallery/bu/...ity_report.pdf

jslaney · #28 01-26-2009, 03:50 AM

Message received loud and clear. Stop using Tap Water and Get a RO/DI.

Hi Myka,

I will give you the results to my calcium values when next I go into my LFS. I had to leave but he said he would test it straight away. I am not using any additives, but let me double check that measurement before we go into it further. So purple up is snake oil eh? I kinda figured.

I was planning on trying to do that with my hydrometer but its nice to hear you confirm it. I will definitely double check it regardless.

Lastly, thanks so much for putting up those stickies and the Library. I have read them all.

I have just got a lid for my tank so Hopefully I wont have to do as many water changes and it will therefore make lugging RODI water around a little more manageable. This will work until the summer when it will likely be too hot to use.

Please don’t anyone feel afraid to be frank or blunt. If someone had been from the start then maybe I would have budgeted for a RO/DI unit sooner.

Thanks again guys, I will keep you posted.

Jon.

Snaz · #29 01-26-2009, 04:22 AM

Jon it sounds like your well on your way to having a great reef. Read as much as you can.

Buying a lid to reduce water changes is not quite accurate. The lid will help reduce evaporation which in turn will reduce the amount of freshwater top ups certainly but you will always have to do regular 10% weekly water changes to replenish the trace elements that your corals and general reef function consume.

First rule of reefing. Patience. Learn that rule and the rest is gravy. Welcome to Canreef!

Johnny Reefer · #30 01-26-2009, 06:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jslaney

... This will work until the summer when it will likely be too hot to use. ....

As Snaz said, + ....too hot to use what? RO/DI water? If you're looking for shortcuts (in leiu of saying excuses) you might want to rethink the whole thing. The hobby is time consuming.

Good luck and cheers,