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  #21  
Old 02-15-2005, 06:03 PM
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I was able to reduce the bubbles a bit by having an exit hole in the discharge tube so that the air had somewhere to go (other than into the tank) as this slug of water came sloshing down the pipe. It never really eliminated them, though, and there was always bubbles throughout the entire surge.

I actually didn't mind them so much in the tank but the salt spray that they caused was getting everywhere. Although in the end it wasn't the reason I stopped using the surge device. But if there's a way to make that part of it better, I'm all for it, nonetheless. If you wouldn't mind looking up that RC thread, I'd love to see it. Thanks.
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  #22  
Old 02-15-2005, 10:23 PM
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Who said power heads are unsightly was bang on. I looked at Jacks return loop on his older tank (60 gallon) I think and it was an awesome set up. I tried plumbing a couple of Mag3's into some PVC and having it branch out behind the LR in various areas when it was all said and done it still looked cumbersome and unsightly. I was also thinking of putting a float switch on a pump to return the water from the sump but that was kind of kiboshed through domestic issues. I thought a 50 gallon sump with a small holding area and the float switch to push most of the water back to the main tank then switch off when the water level got to say 3 inches deep in the sump have that on a timer so during the day I had lots of movement then at night just have a smaller pump running for less surge(less noise).

I think what we really want rather than tons of water swirling around is that back and forth surge, on a real reef there isn't all these little currents always but there is always the motion of the ocean that surge is what moves nutrients to the corals and moves debris away. I think that toilet plunger idea is an excellent one, I wonder what size of refugium/holding tank you'd need to get the full effect of the surge.

To reduce bubbles what about putting in a trap, lower than the surface of the water, then have the tubes come back up and into the tank, that may reduce some of the bubbles... or maybe I'm way off track.

Doug
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  #23  
Old 02-15-2005, 10:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BCOrchidGuy

I think what we really want rather than tons of water swirling around is that back and forth surge, on a real reef there isn't all these little currents always but there is always the motion of the ocean that surge is what moves nutrients to the corals and moves debris away.

Doug
you might want to check this out.

http://www.marinedepot.com/md_viewIt...product=TZ2311
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  #24  
Old 02-15-2005, 10:51 PM
BCOrchidGuy BCOrchidGuy is offline
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Nice but seeing as I pay $500 a month in child support I figure my spending money is about $200 a month and that's for groceries and gas too so I figure it would take me 11 years to save up for that. It is cool though, gotta love Tunze.

Doug
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  #25  
Old 02-16-2005, 02:35 AM
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There it is...
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/sh...hreadid=507732

I actually have an exit hole on mine and can't really tell if it works anymore. When I used the same hole on a Carlson surge (same connections to the surge atop), the hole actually worked as a Venturi and gave a 100% bubbling surge. With the Borneman, it shoots water out. Go figure?
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  #26  
Old 02-16-2005, 04:59 AM
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Ohhhhh he capped the standpipe and made the safety overflow completely independent of the discharge tube. Brilliant. Yes, I see how that could work!

Oooh ooohh ohhhhh I have to set my Borneman surge up again. Glad I never throw anything out!!!!!!
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  #27  
Old 02-16-2005, 05:54 AM
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I kept thinking he'd done more than that.. I tried capping my standpipe (I just stuck my hand over it) and the resulting pressure was simply too great to let the flapper close.. It would just BANG BANG BANG up and down and never be able to suck down. It could also be the amount of PVC I have running from the surge to display.. Maybe a P-trap if space weren't at such a premium.. Sigh.

Ok, it's decided. I'm just going to set up a desktop nano cube and do all my evil experiments on that.
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  #28  
Old 02-16-2005, 06:11 AM
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Did you use the check valve on the discharge tube? I haven't finished reading the thread yet but the gyst I'm getting is that this is integral to the flapper closing properly. A P trap may work as well except an open P trap would defeat the purpose of capping the overflow.

Although I think the problem would be different from what you're describing.

Ah, time to read it again and think it through one more time.
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