#221
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Haahaa that was a shot in the dark! I guess it worked. I had no idea you were looking to get into it. We must talk PM me if you're really looking for clientele.
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#222
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Pretty good shot in the dark! I sent PM in SaskReef.
Sent from my Dungeon using mad Ninja Skillz. |
#223
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You might be better off running the Abyzz pump as an external. They run pretty cool so there isn't much heat transfer, but even at low amperage, that's 400v in saltwater you are exposed to. I use larger Banjo brand all stainless clamps. I'm using silicone hose, but would use braided in the future as it is less likely to split or cut.
The carbon dosing is definitely the cause of the cyanobacteria. I would discontinue it and use erythromycin phosphate (250mg/10 gal x two doses, two days apart). Red Slime remover switched to a non-phosphate erythromycin and it doesn't appear to work anymore. There's more phosphate in a single tank feeding, so it's a non-issue. Remember to turn off skimmer, o3, UV, and chemical media. Turn skimmer on conservatively over a 3-5 day period as carbon removed the E.M. Turning down the white lights and relying on blue light will not stress the corals too much and help fight the red slime. I use a small brine shrimp net and a baster to physically remove as much red slime as possible, as it is toxic as it dies off. |
#224
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The system is design for internal pumps, so that's not going to change. The pumps are connected to an in service box GFCI breaker. If there isa ground they are kicked out in a millisecond. I'm not worried about the juice in the water. I have some new pure titanium worm gear hose clamps that will go on today. Hopefully that will alleviate all my concerns about corrosion and the pumps blowing off the silicone connectors.
I still am unsure as to what I am going to do with my reactors. Cyanobacteria by nature is a nitrogen fixer, so why would I remove the bio-pellets, which are a harbour for bacteria that consumer nitrogen and phosphates? Should I try and start from scratch as Mr. Wilson suggests? Take the BP off-line and sort out the issue in the tank, then maybe bring the bio-pellets back online with new pellets in the machine? I am going to go do some netting and siphoning for now. |
#225
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Well just how much cyano do you have? Post some pics?
Sent from my Dungeon using mad Ninja Skillz. |
#226
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Here are some quick shots. They aren't all corrected, unsharpened, bla bla bla but you get the idea!
Here is what came in the mail while I was gone. |
#227
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From your pics, I'm not entirely convinced that is cyano. The color in the pics looks more of a brown color and snot-like? Have you seen dinoflagellates before? I'm a bit worried that is the beginning of dinos. What's your pH at? Which tester?
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#228
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It's more reddish to maroon in colour. The pH from the profilux sensor is 7.9. It was calibrated a month ago. My pH has barely every went above 8.0 pH.
It doesn't get stringy or bubble up at night. I think I will replace my GFO with some new stuff. Get my GAC and ozone running full torque. Siphon out what's on the surface. Any other suggestions? |
#229
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Quote:
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#230
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Our house has a full on HRV system. All of the air in the home is exchanged approximately every 7hrs. I don't think I am going to pop a whole in the wall for more fresh air. Should I do something else to bump my pH up? I am running Tailored Marine Ca, Alk & Mg on my doser and topping up with RODI.
I can't honestly say the offending mat isn't dinoflagellates. I'm not educated enough to say either way. Feel free to come on over and take a look for yourself if you have time! Haahaa I always feel like a little kid when you make comments like this "You have your BP effluent plumbed direct to your skimmer inlet, right?" Yes, I do. Before it was within a couple inches of the skimmer intake, but now it's essentially touching the red dragon intake. Cheers, Scott |
Tags |
abyzz, bubble king dc 250, mitras, profilux 3, reef |
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