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  #201  
Old 03-15-2010, 11:16 PM
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Poo pipe is moved.

I called the city via 311 today and figured, I'm going to get the definitive answer on the code here, and challenge them on the reasoning.

So. Here we go (drum roll please):

Yes, it's code to not allow anything other than clear water to indirectly drain into a floor drain. That means basically the condensation from your A/C, furnace, HRV, etc. ... and that's about it. I suppose RO/DI waste line would suffice as "clear water."

Anything other than that ... nope. MUST be drained directly and vented.

I asked, what about washing machines? Those are indirectly drained .. "That WAS allowed at one time, but not anymore."

So I asked why. This is rich, wait for it.

Soaps and anything else we silly people will dump into a sink drain will sit in the trap of the floor drain and begin to smell. That's when us silly people call the city to complain about our drains smelling of sewer, and they come check it out, and then find out that that it was just the stinky water in the drain trap. So no more will that petulant nonsense be allowed.

Wish I were making this up.
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Last edited by Delphinus; 03-15-2010 at 11:19 PM.
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  #202  
Old 03-15-2010, 11:20 PM
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Ohh I see. They change the code so THEY don;t have as much work to do... That is SO nice of them
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  #203  
Old 03-15-2010, 11:39 PM
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So my lesson learned after moving the poo pipe was that jackhammering concrete isn't all THAT bad, although if one was to do it near a tank they should put up a blast sheild because concrete debris was flying everywhere.

But I think about how it is to cut a linear length of pipe and insert a T fitting into it. You cut the pipe, move the cut pieces apart so that you can wrestle the fitting into it, and then jam the pieces back together. How do you do that when the upstream and downstream sections are still underground? They'll have absolutely no wiggle room... or you'd have to jackhammer the whole pipe out to the endpoint and relay it all the way to the end again.

No thanks.

One laundry sink coming right out of my basement.... guess my 4 piece plumbing permit just became a 3 piece.
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  #204  
Old 03-15-2010, 11:55 PM
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it is a PITA to put a T in existing. basically ya you got to hammer out a bunch. BUT, you can get rubber pipe couplings that are sealed with hose clamps. It doesnt need to be the regular PVC joints. So with the rubber couplings on either end, you cut out a section, slide the couplings on either end, set back in place and slide couplings up over the pipe. Not as bad as you think

these are what I'm talking about

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Last edited by banditpowdercoat; 03-16-2010 at 12:13 AM.
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  #205  
Old 03-16-2010, 01:12 AM
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I did sort of wonder about those but .. dunno, just doesn't seem as solid as cementing a joint. But I guess when you're in a bind, you do what you have to do ..
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  #206  
Old 03-16-2010, 01:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Delphinus View Post
I did sort of wonder about those but .. dunno, just doesn't seem as solid as cementing a joint. But I guess when you're in a bind, you do what you have to do ..
Not solid, but they seal really well, AND, your going to be burried in dirt and cemented over, right, so no movement
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  #207  
Old 03-16-2010, 03:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Delphinus View Post
So my lesson learned after moving the poo pipe was that jackhammering concrete isn't all THAT bad, although if one was to do it near a tank they should put up a blast sheild because concrete debris was flying everywhere.

But I think about how it is to cut a linear length of pipe and insert a T fitting into it. You cut the pipe, move the cut pieces apart so that you can wrestle the fitting into it, and then jam the pieces back together. How do you do that when the upstream and downstream sections are still underground? They'll have absolutely no wiggle room... or you'd have to jackhammer the whole pipe out to the endpoint and relay it all the way to the end again.

No thanks.

One laundry sink coming right out of my basement.... guess my 4 piece plumbing permit just became a 3 piece.
Tony the fittings for a 3 or 4" pipe usually have a 1" flang on either end.... Just cut the opening for the new tee about 1" shorter than the tee itself and slide the tee all the way to one side and then back on to the other side. You will end up with 1/2" insert on both sides.
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  #208  
Old 03-16-2010, 03:20 AM
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Ah ok. Yeah I see. Thanks! If I do decide to go ahead I guess it won't be so bad. It still sounds a whole lot easier to tell the inspector I've decided not to have a sink anymore. What happens after he leaves is ... well .. not his or the city's problem, unless I decide to do something really dumb, which I hope I wouldn't. I figure I can just remove the sink if I ever sell the place.
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  #209  
Old 03-16-2010, 03:46 AM
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you can also get expanding pvc joints you cut section of pipe out glue in your t then a piece of pipe on the other side of t then glue on the expansion joint then put your glue on then just pull it out and push it on your pipe that doesnt move . all solid joints.get them at any farm irrigation store or andrew sherets in bc.
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  #210  
Old 03-16-2010, 03:55 AM
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Hey Tony, I might be in the city this weekend, I am a plumber by trade. If you want me to take a look, let me know, I am sure we can come up with something that will not involve a lot of work, like hammering up a floor. Just a thought.
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