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#1
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![]() my tank sat on a 4x4 with 2x6's that was a 280 gal tank .
Mike
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180 starfire front, LPS, millipora Doesn't matter how much you have been reading until you take the plunge. You don't know as much as you think. |
#2
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![]() From an engineering point of view, it comes down to cost.
Distortion is not an issue if you have qualified welders using the correct weld procedures. You could make the whole thing out of aluminium wide flange if you wanted. Space becomes an issue with wood as you get larger and larger but realistically as the stands are generally in compression wood is more than strong enough. Intuitavely, I would think that wood is cheaper than steel and construction costs tend to be less but the only way to be sure would be to get a quote from a shop. |
#3
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![]() Ill post because I build alot of stands made of either material. I build wood stands and canopies for most tanks up too 300 gallons, I build some stands out of metal under 300 gallons where space is an issue, canopies are the same deal, I like metal canopies as they are light weight and strong. All tanks over 300 gallons I build steel stands and steel or aluminum canopies, both metals get powder coated and the finish really lasts forever, your wood even if treated will rot long before a well built and well powdercoated steel structure will even begin to rust...
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#4
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![]() I went with metal only because I have a buddy with the skills, equipment and you can't beat free. I would think the space saving is for sure the biggest benifit over wood. I only painted the stand and I do have very minimal surface rust in real wet areas. Next time I'll powder coat for sure.
Dave |
#5
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![]() Ive done both wood and steel. Steel even when powder coated will sooner or later rust if it gets wet. Personaly Id go with aluminum skined with wood.
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Chris |
#6
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![]() Steel has a definite advantage over wood in the compact size and the ability to remain more ridged over a longer distance. this will allow you to span longer distances with smaller sized supports and free up a lot more room. if you were to take a 4X4 stand for a example this will give you a extra 7.5" front to rear by using 1.5X1.5X1/4" "L".
as for rusting there are good coatings that if you apply them right you will not get any. but if you scratch it you may develop a spot of rust, but at any rate rusty steel is still way stronger than rotted wood. my tank is a subframe of steel with a wood wrap (like Brads) ![]() I will add that I did not need the center braces I was just sticking to my overbuilding tendency. ![]() ![]() the real issue is what you feel comfortable working with, i don't mind wielding and I don't mind using wood. for a free standing stand i would use steal again as it is cheaper then wood if you do the work your self, if I was building it into a wall then wood would probably be more convenient as i can use the wall as one side of the stand. Steve
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![]() Some strive to be perfect.... I just strive. |
#7
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![]() Steve that looks great, really nice work.
Doug ps for what it's worth my 90 was on 1x4 and my 155 is on 2x6 |
#8
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![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Steve
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![]() Some strive to be perfect.... I just strive. |
#9
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![]() I used wood for my stand it is around 10 years old never had any problems. But steal would be nice for more space you can never have enough space.
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72g Bowfront Drilled,Lighting,2x250 10,000k MH,2 actinic T5,2/6" fans,2MJ with 1600gph convertions kits,Bullet 2 style skimmer with Mak 4,29g sump/Refugium,96W power compacts in sump, Velocity T4 Titanium "return",Life Guard 300 Fluidize bed filter,1"sand bed, 29g auto top off, 140lb LR,SPS,LPS,Softies,Zoos,2Percula Clowns, 2yellow tail Damsels,1yellow tang,2cleaner shrimp, 1six line Wrass,2 Bengaii Cardinal,1lawnmower Blenny,1sand sifting star,1TigerTailCucumber, snails,hermit crabs,Macros. |
#10
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![]() I am currently in the process of designing the stand for my new 230 Gal.
I am going with steel for 2 reasons.... 1) way more room in the stand to work 2) I want to have good access to what is in the stand so I am going to make the outside out of wood and attach them with magnets (cudo's to Dez for the idea) this way if I need to get at anything all I have to do is pop off the panel and it is out of the way. Joel |