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#11
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![]() I believe if you seed it with quality rock it should be fine within a few months. Or through a good cycle.
Just stock slowly and patiently. Personally, I have not used dry rock, but in the future I think I would. But only about 50% dry, the rest quality live rock. Good luck.
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![]() My 70 Gallon build: http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=66478 My Mandarin Paradise: http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=72762 I wonder... does anyone care enough to read signatures if you make them really small? I would not. I would probably moan and complain, read three words and swear once or twice. But since you made it this far, please rate my builds. ![]() |
#12
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![]() Not exactly. First, you don't cure the rock, since it had no die-off. Second, the difference between a cycled tank (not producing NH3/4) and having functional live rock, is the presence of denitrifying bacteria deep in the pores of the rock. This is going to take much longer than a couple of weeks. With dry rock in a NH3 free tank, you have pretty rocks. With real live rock, you have a filtration system for your tank that reduces NO3 to free N, giving a (mostly) complete nitrogen cycle. This is why a mature LR tank can be NO3 free, while with decorative rock, NO3 builds and requires water changes for dilution.
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Brad |
#13
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![]() If was doing a drop off I would strongly consider using dry rock so that you can place and glue everything at your pace. Then as suggested seed it with good quality live rock for a few months and then you should be pest free and good to go
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#14
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![]() Quote:
"catch up"....... maybe we can sweet talk Mindy into doing a "dead rock" article and make it a "sticky"?
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260g mixed reef, 105g sump, water blaster 7000 return, Bubble King SM 300 skimmer, Aqua Controller Jr, 4 radions, 3 Tunze 6055s,1 tunze 6065, 2 Vortech MP40s, Vortech MP20, Tunze ATO, GHL SA2 doser, 2 TLF reactors (1 carbon, 1 rowa). http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=50034 . Tank Video here http://www.vimeo.com/2304609 and here http://www.vimeo.com/16591694 |
#15
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![]() ^totally agree with what Brad and Doug are saying.... same problem here in Edmonton....
Steve
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Link to our location and hours!http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=67597 |
#16
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![]() Quote:
![]() Dry rock is a viable alternative, IF you have the patience. I know patience is not something I personally have much of.... ![]()
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Brad |
#17
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![]() I know forsure that a cycled tank and curing rock is different. I think I had a thread on here that was titled cycled rock vs cured rock and myka gives a good talk. I think I'm convinced with such a small price difference in used and rock from the lfs I'm going to use quality rock. I think an article like that would be great because at one point I was searching for that topic. Would 20 lbs of live and say 10 lbs of dry pack my 20g to full? I won't have a sump untill I build my own stand.
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#18
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![]() I think your 20 lbs of live would be sufficient, one lb per gallon is the rule I go by and it hasnt failed me yet...
Steve
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Link to our location and hours!http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=67597 |
#19
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![]() Quote:
Oh yes I understand that but to create a cliff, easier with base rock. But I want to have enough live rock. |
#20
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![]() in that case follow the 20 lbs of live rock and use however much base as needed for your project!
Steve
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Link to our location and hours!http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=67597 |