New to RODI

[hillegom]

The water should not continue flowing after the container is full. the auto shutoff should take care of that part. If it is not it is either defective or you have it plumbed wrong.
Three quarters of the way down the link, is a schematic (simple) that might help you. I do not have this brand of ro, just use it as a helper.

http://www.watergeneral.com/support/pdf/RO585.pdf
Take the 5th stage as if it was the DI then into the 45 gal drum
Delete the storage tank they have, unless you have one and attach it to the icemaker/drinking faucet
And I agree, if you are using this unit for drinking, tee off the drinking water before the DI

[gregzz4]

Thanks for the link, I'll wander off now for a bit ...

[gregzz4]

After consulting your linked schematic, and BRS's install video, I think I see the problem. I installed my check valve after the auto shutoff valve. I would have thought that it would work anywhere inline on the clean water line. But now I see that has no way of stopping the waste water {slaps forehead}
Thank you for the info.
I am off to tear it down. Wish me luck

[gregzz4]

Thanks hillegom !
It takes a full 100 seconds, but it shuts off now. And thats at 60psi.
The system did not come with a check valve or float switch, so I can only blame me. But I must say even if it came with these items, with the instructions that were included, I probably could have pooched the install anyway.
I'm still proud of what I have done. I wanted the ability to monitor the TDS of the Raw, RO and DI water, use or not use the DI canister, and monitor both the Raw and Filtered water pressure.
Objective complete ... continue with suds

[hillegom]

Right on!
auto shut off is good

[Myka]

Originally Posted by gregzz4

The fishies are going to love this, as is my bottled-water buyin' wife

Lots of people suggest collecting water for drinking after the RO, but before the DI. The reef + drinking water systems on the market use a valve to bypass the DI resin for drinking water. I'm not totally sure why. I believe it is more taste than anything (I know I find DI water tastes funny), although I have heard things like DI water is ionicly aggressive and some impurities from the DI resin makes it into the water so is not healthy to drink, but I am not sure of the validity of those claims.

Btw, when it comes time to replace the RO membrane (years from now) replace it with a 75 gpd or 150 gpd RO membrane which is more efficient. Since you have REALLY low tds to begin with it really doesn't matter though. If you do change the membrane select a flow restrictor of the same rating.

As far as 1:1 output, I think you're quite alright with that considering you're only putting 8 ppm into the system to begin with. I have been using 1.5:1 for about 2000 gallons nows starting with 160-180 ppm and I'm not having any issues with the membrane clogging so far.

[gregzz4]

Thanks Myka and I read up on drinking DI water. I see enough info to stay away from it.
For the membrane, I'll definately go with either a 75 or 150 with the next purchase, and I know what you mean about the restrictor. Too bad for me I didn't want to bother anyone before I bought the 100gpd unit I have now. It'll definately do the trick.
I could have bought the fancy shmancy Vertex automatic unit for what I've spent on what I have, but I have 2 gauges, 3 TDS meters and the ability to by-pass the DI.
5 of one and 6 and a half, or is that 7, of the other, oh, no wonder my budget is off

[gregzz4]

So I got sidetracked with the repairs ...
A couple of my questions are, do I need to stir my storage tank ? Aerate it or heat it ? I'll gather heating it is a waste as it's in a warm room.

[Myka]

The RO/DI doesn't need to be stirred, aerated, or heated. Whatever you end up doing with the water will make it a moot point. You will either put it into a salt mixing barrel where you will heat and mix (aerate) it, or you will put it in a tub for top off where it will just sit and get cold anyway.

Honestly, I would be ticked right off if I had 8 ppm going into the RO and having anything other than 1:1 water ratio. Most membranes suggest 4:1 which is for flushing the membrane as it runs to keep it from scaling, but with only 8 ppm going in, imo you don't have much to worry about. That RO membrane will last you probably 5+ years with that little load you're putting on it.

With 160-180 ppm my RO membranes last 2-3 years. I would rather replace my RO membrane once a year than waste that much water. So far, I haven't had an issue though...my membrane is lasting just fine at 1.5:1.

[gregzz4]

Thanks Myka. And I'm not so concerned about the ratio as I was about harming the membrane with too much back pressure if I was to shut off the waste valve. Turns out I have no control over it anyway. Unfortunately, unless I change something, the valving on my system allows this much to bypass. So far though, looks like I'll get about 75gpd. I can live with that