Grainy photos and troubles in macro

[Snaz]

Originally Posted by Myka

One of my problems is that no matter what settings I try on Manual Mode the pics are super super dark, so i set ISO at 800

ISO 800 is your problem.. Find some other combination that will bring the ISO down to 400 or less.

[RuGlu6]

Originally Posted by Myka

Thanks for all the ideas! I installed the software from my camera, and it really sucks. Or maybe I didn't figure it out...

One of my problems is that no matter what settings I try on Manual Mode the pics are super super dark, so i set ISO at 800 and then it's "normal" brightness, but pixelated. I tried somemore photos and got the best ones just setting everything on auto. Of course... *rolls eyes*

I will try some of these other programs. Thanks!

If you on manual mode make sure your "F" is wide open at say 2.7 and shutter is not slower then 1/60 if it is slower then use tripod.

Or instead of manual try aperture priority mode and just set on the lowest value i.e. widest opening, you will get nice small depth field and subject will stand out.

[Myka]

I actually just found this "F" adjustment, and did shift it to wide open although it doesn't say a number it is set at. I also cannot find a shutter speed...I will look through the camera manual. I have been playing with the aperture priority mode as well, and find I get some half decent pics with that setting.

This graininess is driving me nuts. From my understanding, this is a decent camera, but I got better pics with my Canon SD500 until I dropped it when I was rappelling.

I will try some of these new settings when the lights come on the tank in 1/2 hour. Thanks for your continued help!!

[sphelps]

I have a G9 and I find it works really well. You should be shooting in aperture priority mode with the lowest number possible (your f number) and keep the ISO low. Either 100 or 200 at the most, those little compacts don't have a large enough sensor to go much higher than that. If the picture is too dark try adjusting your exposure to the plus side which will slow the shutter speed so you might need a tripod or something steady. Also check your metering, you might need to change it from spot to center average or vise verse depending on what you're shooting.

[Myka]

Ok, I found the shutter speed. I adjust that with a button that has an asterisk on it. I would have never known...

Thanks for pointing out all these new adjustments! I'm still having some troubles focussing in macro. It beeps saying it has focussed, but when I look on puter it is not focussed.

My F number range (BKT?) is 2.8-8.0, and then I can spread the numbers (AEB?) from 2-4, but I can only choose one option, either AEB or BKT.

I think I need to take a photography course!

Right now on aperture priority it's bleaching the pics out... now I need to figure out how to change those settings so it isn't doing that anymore...

[BlueAbyss]

My Panasonic Lumix FZ8 has Aperature Priority and Shutter Priority (as well as Program Auto Exposure, Manual Exposure, Intelligent ISO, and Simple), while in either of these modes you can adjust the setting that has priority and the other (either shutter speed or F-stop) adjust accordingly to give you the proper exposure (if possible). It will over or under-expose if you push the settings above or below a certain threshold, in either of these settings, but I can adjust the exposure also in all of my settings +/- 2 stops, to somewhat negate this effect.

[o.c.d.]

"I'm still having some troubles focussing in macro. It beeps saying it has focussed, but when I look on puter it is not focussed."
I was having the same problem I now shoot super macro with digitial image stabilization more (or pic of shakey hand). It works good i've also read about using a cell phone holder stuck to the outside glass for stabilization. A tri pod works to just not for in tank shots. I should mention I'm using a Olympus1030

[Myka]

Ok, I think I'm getting better. I've been checking my photo settings of the photos that are turning out well by checking the properties from right-clicking. Cool feature. http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/sho...&postcount=145

[Snaz]

Originally Posted by Myka

Ok, I think I'm getting better. I've been checking my photo settings of the photos that are turning out well by checking the properties from right-clicking. Cool feature. http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/sho...&postcount=145

Right-click saved my life. True story.

[SmallFry]

Originally Posted by Myka

Ok, I think I'm getting better. I've been checking my photo settings of the photos that are turning out well by checking the properties from right-clicking. Cool feature. http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/sho...&postcount=145

Photos look pretty good - much better than what I'm getting anyway - I don't have that much light in the tank and I'd imagine the flash would freak the fish out. That's my excuse and I'm sticking to it
Taking lots and seeing what works is the best way - it's the real beauty of digital cameras, costs nothing but time and also they remember exactly what you did right when you cant!

Getting things in focus at a wide aperture can be a nightmare because the depth of field is short - at smaller aperture it is longer so easier to get the right thing in focus, but the downside is less light which means longer exposures and possible blurring from vibration (as bad as not being in focus). It's a trade off..
One thing worth knowing is that you can to some extent take a photo that's a bit underexposed and then brighten it on the computer. Even if it looks almost black, the detail from the shadows should still be there. This isn't the case for overexposing things, where once it's white there's no detail left. I run my camera routinely underexposing slightly which I can correct later, so I don't overexpose the highlights which I can't.

Rob.

Oh yes, and thanks for the guide on getting rid of hair algae - I can actually see the rocks again!