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#11
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![]() Just remember the trick is can not go more than 55 GPH. Once in a while I get the ich back but with this treatment it always work for me
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#12
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![]() Ok, well I still am not sure I need to add UV when I already have ozone running but if I decide to give it a try, I will remember that. Thanks.
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#13
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![]() Well it looks like the most of the ich has already dropped off the puffers again. Neither of them seem stressed at all. Of course all that means is that the ich not on them but all over the tank.
I don't know...seems like each time they get ich it drops off in a day or two. Does that mean anything? In the past I remember it always staying on them for at least a week before dropping off. |
#14
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![]() is it possible the ich could be flaring up due to being transfered in and out of quarantine? id feel pretty stressed if i kept getting booted out of my home to live in a plastic box. and now that theyre home again and settling in the ich is dropping off.
as for why its not dying off... im clueless...
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how many times does it take starting from scratch to make your dream a reality? Starting new setup as of Oct/16 |
#15
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![]() Quote:
Now I don't know...QT again! Risk some of them not making it and stress them again. Or keep letting them fight it on their own? Risking them getting really sick I guess. Its hard to figure out for me right now which is why I am still considering finding them good homes. Problem there is that how can I find people who want to take fish with ich??? Blah! |
#16
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![]() One solution is to turn your display into a QT - yank all the live rock and let it cook in a rubbermaid for a few months, then nuke the display with cupramine.
If my memory is correct, you've got an acrylic tank so there's no risk getting copper embedded into the silicone. You'll sacrifice your corals but since they're softies, I believe, they should be easily replaceable. Cupramine was the thing that finally destroyed the ich cycle when I first got my hippo tang after going through all that other crap like hypo, garlic, cleaner shrimp, UV, witchcraft etc. etc. Going hypo may make you feel all warm and fuzzy, but darn it, do what human beings have always done when faced with an annoyance: stomp the living daylights out of it with harsh chemicals!!! |
#17
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![]() The trick with ich is you need to keep ALL fish out of the display for a tleast a month and a half. 6 to 8 weeks usually.
There is another method which requires you to remove the fish and transfer them to a new clean sterilized tank every week for a certain amount of time, this will eliminate the ich as well. But is a bit more stressful to the fish. Either way, you need to leave the display empty of all fish or you will have ich present forever unless all the fish develop a immunity to ich.
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Chad |
#18
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![]() Quote:
I can't use copper with my puffers. They are scaleless and cannot handle copper. My tank is actually glass too, so I prefer not to use copper in it! I also don't want to loose my corals...I have a decent amount now and they are just starting to grow. I could move them to a holding tank, thats easy enough. The thing is that the fish that can tolerate copper are not the ones really showing ich at all. Its mostly the puffers. Thanks for the ideas though! |
#19
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![]() http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2003-08/sp/index.php
Treatment #5.. more good reading http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2003-1...ture/index.php
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Chad |
#20
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![]() Yeah I have read both is those many, many times LOL. Thanks though!
I am still going to look into finding homes. If I can find good homes for my Niger, Burrfish and Dogface then I will tear down the rest of the tank. If not in the next week or so, I will try the QT thing again. For whatever reason I really would rather find them homes and go back to freshwater. Im just tired of all the parasites in saltwater. But it's very important to me that I know where they are going and will be taken care of. If not, I will keep them and deal with this. |