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#11
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![]() Yup that is the right type of overflow. I would recommend using 3/8" acrylic for the overflow teeth though, more durable and looks better (IMO).
I am also a huge fan of 2" drains, two 2" drains for my display. No way in the world a snail, fish or other reef occupant will clog a 2" drain, let alone 2 of them. Quote:
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I'm out. ![]() |
#12
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![]() So, anyone have experience cutting that style of overflow into the glass panel? It defenatley looks like it was cut by some sort of diamond tool.
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#13
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![]() Rob is describing Herbie's silent overflow system. There is a great thread on this at Reef Central that started a couple of years ago.
Definitely go for Herbie's overflow system if you really want silence. I would use a gate valve rather than a ball valve, much easier to control, I started with a ball valve then changed over to a gate valve and it made a big difference. With this system you just need straight perforated pipe for both the primary (gated ) standpipe and for the emergency overflow pipe. |
#14
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![]() Quote:
Thanks. |
#15
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![]() Mine is a Pre-Herbie design
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#16
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![]() I'm using 2-2" Durso's flowing ~1000gph. No gurgling but more a trickling sound you would get from a small table fountain. Not silent but sort of nice actually.
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#17
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![]() I made my own perforations in the standpipes by drilling into them.
The first (working) standpipe had perforations from about 1/2 way up, all the way up to the top. The second (emergency backup) standpipe has perforations only at the top two inches. You use the gate valve to adjust the water level in the overflow so it is about 3/4 of the way up the working standpipe ie. about 1/2 way up the perforations on the working standpipe. Too low, and you get a loud gurgle noise. Too high, and it will overflow into the emergency backup standpipe. That is why a gate valve is needed, to get it adjusted just right. http://reefcentral.com/forums/showth...hreadid=344892 |