cyano - Page 2

WaterLogged · #11 06-01-2006, 05:09 PM

Tank is a 90 gal. I only have 2 blue damsels and 1 yellow tail wrasse. 40 lbs. live rock so far, 4 " dsb. 3 maxi jet 1200's, skimmer and fluval 404 adding flow as well. Fluval has no media in it, except phosphate sponge.lighthing is outer orbit 48" 2 x 150 hqi , 2x dual actinics 95 watt i think, moon lights. Total 530 watts per gal. Issue got worse when new lighting came but i expected that. Wouid it hurt anything to just shut the lights off until the red is gone?

WaterLogged · #12 06-01-2006, 05:11 PM

I also just put in some red garcilia??? spelling? Just in the main tank until I get a sump on order for July. Is that even going to help the problem. Thought it may compete with the cyano for nutrients.... I dont really want to shut the lights off for that reason. I dont want to kill my nice macro algae.

TheReefGeek · #13 06-01-2006, 05:14 PM

Your bio-load is small, just keep up on water changes, and add more live rock, im sure you know you need more, 90-150lbs or so. Add is slowly or cure it in a container first or you will spike your tank with die-off from the rock.

For 3 fish they won't need much to eat, you are probably over-feeding. Feed small amounts, and make sure they eat it all, then give them a bit more.

TheReefGeek · #14 06-01-2006, 05:18 PM

Keep your lights on.

How often, and what % do you do water changes currently.

WaterLogged · #15 06-01-2006, 05:22 PM

Well for the first 5 months i probably only changed my water 4 times at 10%. But In the last month I have changes 10% twice with RO water. Do you think a really big water change is in store for me?

TheReefGeek · #16 06-01-2006, 05:37 PM

No need to do a dratsic water change just because of cyano.

What you do need to do is a 10% change every week. Other than that keep everything the same and the problem should go away on its own. (do increase your rock if you are going full reef though) Especially with a weak skimmer, you should be doing weekly water changes.

You can also run carbon.

When you get your sump running, consider a macro algae fuge, and something like an ASM skimmer.

Ruth · #17 06-01-2006, 05:40 PM

Definately wouldn't hurt to do up to a 50% water change and try to suck up all the cyano you can while you are siphoning water out. You can take a turkey baster and really blast your rocks to disturb any cooters and put it into suspension to be siphoned out.
IMO Hagen test kits are not that reliable but in any case cyano is said to feed of phosphates. If you are getting a zero reading on your phosphate test kit that is not uncommon in a tank with cyano as the algea is using all available phosphate to sustain itself. As a rule of thumb if you have cyano you have phosphate.
As has been said cut back on feeding and if you are feeding frozen food what I do is let it thaw out in a piece of paper towel and then scrape the food particles into a shot glass of RO water and rinse it a bit and then pour that again through a piece of paper towel and then mix that food with some tank water and feed to tank. Frozen foods are notorious for containing phosphate. With what you have in your tank it wouldn't hurt to cut back on you lighting period. Your probably just fine with your Halides on 4 hours a day or less. I have cut back on the time my halides are on but more for heat control. I just make sure they are on when I am home so I get to enjoy it.
HTH

WaterLogged · #18 06-01-2006, 05:43 PM

The sump I am getting is being built custom by a guy from saskatoon. It will have an in-line fuge, and a recirculating skimmer built into the sump. I can't wait to get it. Hopefully my algae woo's will be over. I plan on growing some kind of macro in the fuge.

I will continue to do 10% WC weekly and vacuum the crap up. I did see a nitrate drop form 5-10 to 5 in a month. So that's a good start i guess.

Stuff just looks so ugly !!!

Thank you again for all your help. I'll keep you updated for sure

Mark

TheReefGeek · #19 06-01-2006, 05:53 PM

I would investigate a brand-name skimmer to use, or at least find out the exact specs of the skimmer this guy is building for you.

Recirculating just means that one of the pumps is taking its feed water from the skimmer body, not from the sump.

Skimmers that come with sumps are notoriously weak, but if this is custom it might be fine. Just find out what style of skimmer it is, the pumps being used, etc.

WaterLogged · #20 06-01-2006, 06:49 PM

His skimmers are based on a recirculating and inline design. This is the most effective and efficient skimmer design. It will have two valves for adjustment, one will control the water flow through your skimmer and the other will control the skimmer water level height. The pump in the skimmer is a sedra 3500 needle wheel.

I trust in him that this is a good choice, he has done many many before. Does this all sound good to you guys?