This is odd... - Page 2

OCDP · #11 02-27-2006, 02:46 PM

Yeah, Bev.. I know PRIME doesn't remove phosphates.

And I definitely wouldn't be too surprised to find some phosphates in my water.. I mean, 20g , 4 fish...the feedings, etc... it's inevatible IMO.

I just don't know how much phosphates are in my water hehe... let's say it can't be TOO bad considering my SPS are thriving and growing well in these conditions.

Here's a question... can I simply stick macro's into my tank and hide them away in a corner or something and just let them grow? What kind of macro's would be best? If so, I will definitely do this so it sucks some nutrients up... why haven't I thought/tried this before?! eesh.

OCDP · #12 02-27-2006, 02:49 PM

Bev,

Will do... I'll test before adding PRIME.

Mr. Alberta,

Thanks for the tips, I'd love to run a phosphate remover but I don't have any way of running it! I only use powerheads and a HOB skimmer on my tank

OCDP · #13 02-27-2006, 02:59 PM

Oops, not sure if the question was missed or not.. just wanted to ask before it gets put down to the bottom of the page ...

Can I stick macros directly into my display for nutrients? Could I simply just stick it in a back corner so it's hidden and let it grow??? What kind of macro's would be best to use?

Thanks.

TheReefGeek · #14 02-27-2006, 03:03 PM

I would test your water before and after Prime then. It is good to know what is in the water before prime, but more importantly after, because that is what is actually going into your tank.

Yes you can grow macro in your display, read up on it going asexual first. I think Chaeto is one of the safer ones. Bev uses and elastic and attaches it to a rock in your BB tanks. I have just started Chaeto, but have had razor and grape calurpa in my display for a long time, never had any problems.

OCDP · #15 02-27-2006, 03:04 PM

Thanks Rory.

I'll test my water this evening

Willow · #16 02-27-2006, 03:07 PM

cheato can grow quite well in your tank, you do not need a sump for it. only problem is it can grow fast depending on your nutrient level so you need to keep it pruned back or it will overrun. don't add caulerpa to your display as it will infest your rock and possibly go sexual without a 24 hour lighting period.

OCDP · #17 02-27-2006, 03:12 PM

thanks Willow.

Will the chaeto attatch to my rocks and spread over them?? I don't want that to happen.

Does anyone feel like explaining how and what it is when macro's go sexual? Or anyone with some good reads on it?

Lastly.. what does calupra (sp?) look like? I have this purple string-like macro on my rocks and it attatches to it like crazy, it's impossible to rip off...

If the chaeto is a good choice, and wont over-run my live rocks... then I am off to find me some chaeto !

Beverly · #18 02-27-2006, 03:21 PM

Chaeto does not actually attach to the rock, even after a long period of time, ime. Just keep pruning it back and change elastics once in awhile. However, I have had bits of chaeto, that must have detached from the main "chaeto ball" while pruning, attach to the backs of my tanks. Thought that was kind of weird since it has never attached to the rock it's elasticked to. (Don't know if elasticked is even a word

)

I have chaeto and other non-invasive macroalgae in higher flow areas of all our no-skimmer, no sump/refugium, BB tanks. I also try really hard to keep a low bioload and not overfeed.

Beverly · #19 02-27-2006, 04:25 PM

Also check your tank for a dead snail or hermit crab. That can foul a small tank very quickly.

I would also suggest throwing on some sort of mechanical filtration and do some serious turkey basting of rock and sandbed. If you have never basted your tank before, be ready for serious cloudiness. Don't worry about the cloudiness, it will not harm your tank. Have done this proceedure in a couple of tanks with sandbed and cyano problems and it is safer than using chemical cures, imo.

Anyway, once the once the tank clears, remove and clean the media in the mechanical filter, then baste the rock some more. Also gently basted the sandbed where the cyano grows, not so much as to cause a sand storm, but enough to loosen the cyano and some of the detritus into the water column. When the tank clears again, clean the filter media again. Your skimmer may also need the collection cup cleaned more frequently during basting, so keep an eye on it as well.

Do this basting and filter media cleaning thing at least once a day for as long as the tank gets cloudy during basting. By the end of the basting period, you will have exported tons of detritus which helped fuel your algae problems.

Once you get things under control with the large water changes, continue basting and cleaning filter media in your tank before doing weekly water changes of at least 15%.

OCDP · #20 02-27-2006, 04:29 PM

Bev,

Thanks a bunch for all the suggestions, you're always such a big help! Your method sounds great and I am definitely going to do that.

I always thought that when you turkey baste the rocks and sandbed, that the junk that comes up is harmful.. and can cause ammonia spikes or something nasty.. that's why I tend not to do the rocks but only the sandbed, and just very gently.

Would an AC500 or something similar be sufficient for running carbon in?? If so, I can get one of those for fairly cheap.

Thanks again Bev, and everyone else