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#11
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![]() okay... so the 170 KH is listed as mg/L. So is the cacium. It is a nutrifin test kit and it says optimal level of Ca is 400-425, I know alot of people are 450-475, and the optimal KH is 105-120 mg/L.
I have added Seachem calcium, powdered, at a rate of 7.5g/40gal. It says that it will raise Ca 18mg/L with each 5g/40gal dose, so I should get a little more increase than that. The maximum daily dose is 10g/40gal. I have mixed up enough top off water to last ten to eleven days at a rate of 7.5g/40gal. I should, after that period be somewhere in the 400 range. Is this too quick an increase? Should I dilute? And where should the KH really be? I was going by this test kit and no other knowledge. Since my questioning of it I have seen numbers ranging from 100 - 350. Bev... Ruth? Shine some brilliance on me. Thanks Mike
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This all started with a ten gallon and two clowns. |
#12
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![]() You should reveiw Bev's chemistry links that are a sticky in this forum to fully get the whole picture. I like to try to keep my levels at close to NSW (Natural Sea Water) so here is what I try to shoot for - a little more or less is not that big of a deal:
Alk - 2.9 meg/L or KH of 8 dKH Calcium - 400 - 425 ppm Magnesium - 1300-1500ppm I have always used Salifert test kits to test the majority of my levels in my aquariums. They are easy to use and from what I have read fairly accurate. The only one that I am convinced is not very accurate is the Phosphate test kit. As with everything in this hobby good things happen slowly and bad things happen quickly. If I was you I would be tempted to either take a sample of your water into a LFS to have it tested or to a friend that has all 3 of the above test kits to double check for accuracy. See where you are at with all 3 and then go from there - slowly adjusting, testing and re-testing. Over the course of a week or two you should be able to adjust. I can't remember what size of a system you are running but if it is not that big the easiest thing to do may be to just do a few large (50%) water changes. HTH |
#13
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![]() Quote:
170x0.056=9.52dKH. 170x0.02=3.4 meq/l. I'd say your alk is fine, IMHO. HTH and cheers, ![]()
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Mark. |
#14
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![]() Found it! Thanks.
The conversion table is in the freshwater section. Didn't see it till this morning. multiply my 170 reading by 0.056 = dH, 0.07 = Clark H, 0.1 = fH, 0.02 = mEq/L so I guess I am at 3.4 mEq/L or 9.52 dH in degrees? looks like a degree sign next to it. Cool. Is this too hard? I'll aim for 2.9 mEq, both the mag and calcium suppliments say that they can lower hardness slightly. I'll get the Ca up and retest. Thanks all Mike
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This all started with a ten gallon and two clowns. |
#15
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![]() Mike,
I personally recommend the WM Research products like "Reef Pure". I use the liquid concentrated calcium and their powdered PH and KH buffers. Once you have the desired levels you can use their 2 stage additives to help lock it in and IMO they work well.
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![]() Greg |
#16
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![]() ok.....
The drops 17-18 I think you have multiplied that by 10......hence 170 that is mg/l or ppm these 2 are the same thing. dKH is the German reading I think most saltys use this (could be wrong there...lol) Lets start at the drops....... 17x10=170 17.85 is a factor 170/17.85= 9.52dKH now thats not bad at all....IMO The next one is your Mg I dont think you can move forward untill you know what readings you have. good luck P.S. GH is for fresh.......KH is for salt
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Richard _______________________________________ My wife believed me when I told her it was only going to cost about $500.00. that was over two years ago and I'm still grounded..... ![]() |
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32"x32"x20" Cube-ish tank |
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#19
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32"x32"x20" Cube-ish tank Last edited by mr_alberta; 02-19-2006 at 02:30 PM. |
#20
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![]() Hey, I'm old, but not that freaking old
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