Ok I need your Ideas

[DJ88]

Also remember that with each 90 bend in your plumbing you will add on about the equal of one foot of head pressure. So you will lose a massive amount of pressure out of the holes by the time you go up and then back down. Not to mention the bends just coming out of the glass and running along the tank bottom.. A quick calculation is like 15 feet of head pressure on each. If you guesstimate two feet down to the sump. You will need a MASSIVE pump or have one pump for each return line instead of splitting it. Even tehn it will need to be big.

Too much work IMO and too many things can go wrong. Keep it simple... Saves a lot of headaches down the road.

[ 10 December 2001: Message edited by: DJ88 ]

[StirCrazy]

ok ok hehe I just found out we are getting a back pay make up from the goverment so I guess I will order the tank I want [img]images/smiles/icon_smile.gif[/img]

them center holes scared me the more I thought about them.. sooooo...

Steve

[DJ88]

Steve!!!!!!!!!!!

How much back pay??????????

EMAIL ME!!!!!!!!!!

Tell me tell me tell me tell me.

MONEY MONEY MONEY MONEY MONEY [img]images/smiles/icon_biggrin.gif[/img] [img]images/smiles/icon_biggrin.gif[/img]

[ 10 December 2001: Message edited by: DJ88 ]

[ldzielak]

Hey I'll take the tank if you don't want it. I need to setup a fish only in my office. I would of course build a stand that supports the bottom.

The check valve idea with the spring, you can get them in Stainless, but those types have a good size pressure drop. So again I would not use them.

[Delphinus]

Lee wrote:
<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote

Hey I'll take the tank if you don't want it. I need to setup a fish only in my office. I would of course build a stand that supports the bottom.

Well I guess it's not like I haven't seen it done, and done well too.... I'm just not crazy over the idea is all.

To each their own though.....

[ 10 December 2001: Message edited by: delphinus ]

[ldzielak]

I think check valves are a mechanical items just waiting to fail. I agree that the head loss is substantial, but in my case w/ 4MDQX-SC is still to much flow, so I had to install a recirc line back to the left side of the sump.

Also a note if you are wet testing your setup like I did for 2 weeks in the garage. Fresh water and salt water do not have the same viscosity, so you can get a way with more flow when using salt water. I guess if it works with fresh water your on the safe side. My tank level droped 1/4" - 1/8" after the salt was in. My 2 overflows are not enough for 4MDQX, with the screens and the 90 at the top. I'm thinking of installing boxes on the towers. But I can still play with the restrictor on the recirc line.

[Delphinus]

Lee wrote:
<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote

I think check valves are a mechanical items just waiting to fail.

I'm glad someone pointed this out. I was going to say this, I'm glad all I have to do is "second the opinion."

It doesn't take much for the seal to fail on a check valve. Also some check valves are not flappers they are some kind of spring loaded type, and guess what, what is the spring made of? If we can't be sure then don't expose it to your saltwater. Last but not least they do also add a bit of head pressure but probably more so with the springloaded types over the flapper types.

Also ... I'm sorry to rain on the parade, but I gotta say, I'm not real thrilled about seeing holes drilled in the CENTER of the bottom plane. This is the weakest point of the bottom and it endures the most stresses as well. Is this glass or acrylic?

[Reefmaster]

pvc flapper valves are designed so that the flap swings clear so as to not restrict flow. i agree that generally mechanical check valves are a bad idea, but these little flappers kick ass. i wouldn't however use a spring style check valve. shane