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#11
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![]() If the fish is eating well, I would recommend garlic and some real water quality control. Don't mess with crap meds in your tank, if you feel you need to treat the fish do so in a hospital tank, with proven methods.
JMO. |
#12
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#13
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![]() I agree the Dip only works for stuff on the surface but the hyposalinity works nicely long term. Garlic some will argue is useless but I've always had good luck with it, as a preventative measure as well as part of a treatment. My understanding is that it gets into the fishes blood stream and makes the fish taste bad to the parasite. Ever have a feast of curry and then laughed at how you smell the next day??
Blood Hound hit the nail on the head again, the parasite will be in your tank for a long time after the fish are taken out so caution should be observed. My understanding is that there is almost always Ich present in the tank but it takes a weakening of the fish to allow the Ich to become a problem. Doug |
#14
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Very well said Deb! I completely agree. Another note I wanted to add..... I used to do fresh water dips myself but it is EXTREMELY stressful to the fish (the chase, capture, netting, expose to air) and ONLY gets rid of very little spec's of ich that are ONLY the really mature ich (very few) and ready to fall off to multiply in sand bed, although not always affective & too many variables (i.e time of dip, water quality, temp, the live cycle of parasite). All in all freshwater dips DO defeat the purpose as your going to add fish right back to you infected tank right? Isn't that right? Make sense now? And that infected fish acting as a host for any one speckle of parasite will only drop in 5-7days in sand to reproduce to help it to infect the fish again or your other fish. ![]() Also I don't believe in netting any fish either. PLEASE NO NETS! If your going to continue to do dips then try to coach the fish with a net underwater to a underwater cup in tank and then scoop up with water and move over to your freshwater, using minimal stress & very little time exposed to air. Also with netting, Clowns tend to stick to netting (loss of scales, scratches to eye, to name a few) and its extremely stressful to the fish making it harder for the fish to fight ich. But again as others stated, Water quality key, less stress with tank & fish and end result when all fish are infected is usually treatment in hospital tank. Noting that time is of the essence and understanding the disease & its cycle is also crucial to understanding and controlling/remove parasites infestation. Best of luck. *HUGS* ![]()
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~ LeeWorld ~ "Not using a quarantine tank is like playing Russian roulette. Nobody wins the game, some people just get to play longer than others." - Anthony Calfo |
#15
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![]() Thanks for all the help everyone!
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#16
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![]() Make sure there is always nori available to the tang all day. A good diet should help your fish, better than meds IMO. Hows your water quality? Is the fish being stressed in some way?
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Chris |
#17
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![]() For a FW dip I used to do the following, try to match the temp of the water, use some SeaChem reef buffer to set the pH. The dip would last as long as possible before the fish started to show signs of stress and then the fish would go into a QT Tank... I learned my lesson the hard way about adding new fish to the aquarium.
If the fish is already in the aquarium and it gets sick a fish trap is a good way to catch the fish, just don't set it up in the AM and then come home and expect to find a happy content fish. As soon as it's trapped get it out and into the FW Dip and then the QT tank, lowering SG over a period of a few days is a great way to go. Maintaining a lower SG for a period of time and then very gradually increasing SG again to the tank level helps acclimate the fish slowly. Doug PS, either way, Ich sucks |