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#11
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![]() Quote:
Mindy is my go to! Always answers my dumb questions or tank disaster solutions. ![]()
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300g Basement Reef - April 2018 |
#12
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![]() If PO4 is 2 ppm the HI736 ULR Phosphorus checker won't read that high - it only goes to 0.6 ppm (200 ppb).
![]() Perv. ![]() Last edited by Myka; 01-14-2017 at 01:27 PM. |
#13
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![]() I got what you meant Mindy! I think when I get home I will hit the LFS and get them to test the water as well for a second opinion. Seems like PO4 is really high on the test but it didn't reflect looking at the tank.
1 more day and I will be able to get it sorted out. FTR - some nice diving around Maui (Lanai, Molakai, Molkini). Lots of different fish out and about and was fortunate enough to see lots of the whales ![]()
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300g Basement Reef - April 2018 |
#14
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![]() Please make a thread with dive pics/vids!
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#15
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![]() Marine Experience sells it locally, AI may now as well.
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#16
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![]() Haven't been over to Neil's in a bit, that will make my life a lot easier to pick it up locally.
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300g Basement Reef - April 2018 |
#17
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![]() The ULR Hanna phosphorus checker turns off after 10 seconds of displaying the results as well. There's a video on YouTube by Marine Depot that guides you through the process. I find if the vial is not cleaned well you will get results that swing dramatically. If you get this test rinse the glass vial well with vinegar water and a brush and you will get a more consistent reading.
I would use Foz Down if your PO4 level is indeed at 2ppm. Much more economical option than reactors and media. Lastly, don't use API test kits. They're not very reliable/accurate. Good luck.
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Illuminata 57gallon rimless <-- this is a lie! |
#18
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![]() I picked up an ultrasonic cleaner for my airbrush and learned it works well for cleaning test vials as well !
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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ReefDudes Shallow Reef Tank | Fusion 30L Tank Log | DIY FishTankProjects | Arduino Auto Doser | Fluval Edge nano Reef |
#19
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![]() Quote:
![]() Once I get the phosphates down close to zero I'm looking at running GFO or Biopellets in a reactor. Does anyone have any recommendations as to what they are using which is working at successfully keeping phosphates and nitrates down. I also picked up a Salifert PO4 test kit (hopefully this will get me by) until I can get a Hanna checker. I have noticed some of my SPS starting to STN and found 2 frags which got knocked down on the sand bed (birds of paradise and green Acro). Unfortunately these were only skeletons upon my return from vacation. All the fish seem to be happy still. Did a major algae cleaning in the DT and restocked CUC. On another note I observed the overflow to have a large amount of hair algae that I will have to get rid of during my water change. ***stay tuned and crossing my fingers that my tank doesn't crash***
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300g Basement Reef - April 2018 |
#20
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![]() Yikes! Could you cover the overflow with a black acrylic lid? I get them made at a plastics shop here, costs about $10.
Maintenance, stocking, and feeding techniques can keep NO3 and PO4 at close to zero levels, but not everyone wants to follow that method. Biopellets are a good option - they work just fine in a TLF reactor. Most of the issues with biopellets are when people use too many. A lot of tanks that need biopellets also need GFO. I prefer biopellets over liquid carbon dosing (vodka/vinegar/NOPOX/etc) because there is less chance of bacteria film IME. The ULR ones I've used stay on for at least a minute or two. I've not come across an ULR that turned off at 10 secs, just the LR. That's weird that they would be different. How old is yours? Last edited by Myka; 01-16-2017 at 01:45 PM. |