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#11
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![]() Marc,
But before you do... you dont have those 1" lines tee`d off anywhere else do you ?...like a skimmer or multiple tank outlets ? I don't understand. What difference does having other T's (skimmer) or multiple tank outlets on the return line make, what pitfalls are there if you're T-ing off for the reactor? If it's a case of the ball valves seizing because of calcium buildup ... wouldn't this happen anyways if the reactor was fed from somewhere else .. ? :confused: |
#12
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![]() Tony,
If there are any other ballvalves in the line that is being used for the reactor feed say,to a skimmer,the pressure to your reactor changes when they are adjusted.....this slows or increases both your bubble rate and effluent rate. The more tee`s that are used,the worse it gets. Shao`s original complaint was that his effluent rates were inconsistant,and i didnt want him to end up with the same problem. Shao,sounds like you dont have any PVC fittings other than barb fittings on there? Do You have another pump running the skimmer ? [ 25 September 2002, 16:41: Message edited by: Superfudge ] |
#13
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![]() i sure do....
but it is on the other side of the sump!! hahahahha. actually...i didnt notice, but there are a couple pvc adapters on the output of the return pump before it gets to the hose barb. i should be able to put the tap on there. i will try to get a pic of it posted soon so you can tell me if it will be OK or not. also, where do i get the tap from?...will HD have it? thanks |
#14
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![]() Shao,
There is a fitting you can buy that has 1" hose barbs on each side with a 3/4" threaded input on a right angle (making look like a T) I have one on my return and use this to feed my reactor. All you have to do is cut the 1" flex insert the two barbs of the T and then using the exact same fittings that Fishboy has you can hook up to the reactor. Scott |
#15
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![]() cool,
thanks scott. youve returned to join the rest of the living! hows it goin man? been a long time since i've talked to ya. |
#16
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![]() Hello,
You don't tap the feed off the overflow due to bubbles entering into the reactor. Also another danger is if power goes and your reactor would loose prime, when the overflow stops. What you do is just drop the feedline into say... 2" - 3" below your display's water line and the water will just flow (by gravity) into the reactor (which is assumed to be placed below the display). Titus |
#17
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![]() yes but if the power fail for a couple of houre when you not there did you have someting to stop the water before the tank empty on the floor?
I know it is 2-3 inch from the water suface but 2-3 inch is a lot of water in my 130 gal |
#18
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![]() Hello,
Yes it is possible. And I should have mentioned this. But if power goes out, your pump is no longer actively pushing water out of the effluent. Given the small orifice on the drip valve, the flow will be significantly reduced. Further, a proper sump should have enough capacity to handle the extra inflow. But yes one has to be careful on this so adjust the height of the intake appropriately. Titus |
#19
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![]() :confused:
ok, i went to HD and found the fitting that shadetree was talking about and i found a fitting that fishboy is using, but nothing to connect the 2. i even asked the dude there to help me rig something, and we couldnt, atleast not unless we used brass. so where can i get these parts?? or where can i get this tap from? thanks again. |
#20
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![]() Can you try a water filtration store or a specialized plumbing outfit? Here in Calgary a bunch of us shop for miscellaneous bits like that at a Pool pump place (it's called Western Pool & Spa, or Western Pool & Pump, or something ..... I dunno for sure). If you need to call around, ask if they have "John Guest fittings." Even if the piece you need isn't a "John Guest" fitting, odds are that if they have those, then they likely also have the piece you are looking for.
HTH! |