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  #11  
Old 08-22-2014, 08:00 PM
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I think 18" would be a bit shallow for an SPS tank. Unless yo keep the rock work really low the corals would be at the surface in no time. I'm really liking my 48"X30"X24" tank, it gives room for the fish to swim above the corals. But if you have short arms it might not work
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  #12  
Old 08-22-2014, 08:03 PM
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Another thing to think about is if you go for a 36" cube, it's difficult to get a stand taller than about 34" through most doorways.
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  #13  
Old 08-22-2014, 08:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Reefer Rob View Post
I think 18" would be a bit shallow for an SPS tank. Unless yo keep the rock work really low the corals would be at the surface in no time. I'm really liking my 48"X30"X24" tank, it gives room for the fish to swim above the corals. But if you have short arms it might not work
You make some good points..
I do have shorter arms as well haha

I would really love to just run 1 ATI 8 bulb.. Maybe the Cube is not the way tog go.. I also love the 48x30x(20-24)
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  #14  
Old 08-22-2014, 10:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Reefer Rob View Post
Another thing to think about is if you go for a 36" cube, it's difficult to get a stand taller than about 34" through most doorways.
Two part stands.

Charles
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  #15  
Old 08-23-2014, 02:36 AM
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I currently have a 48x48x20 cube tank with overflow in the middle , so the tank is view able all 4 sides . Almost identical to the tank in the link , mine is just a bit bigger and I have euro bracing . Have no complaints about the tank . Well besides it takes a while to clean lol. Love 20 high , also think the cube with internal overflow gives you some cool ways to aquascape . You can really make nice deep caves , instead of focusing on a straighter line and stacking like in a traditional style tank . But I guess this style is good if you have a place to hang lights . I have a pipe in the overflow that I run all my cords down to make it look wireless. Really clean set up . Just a little bit of insight from owning a cube tank good luck with the build




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  #16  
Old 08-23-2014, 03:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ashr View Post
I would like to stick with ATI bulbs and an ATI 8 bulb fixture might do the trick.
We have a 36" 10 bulb ATI Powermodule for sale if you are looking.
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  #17  
Old 08-23-2014, 03:30 AM
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I choose to go 22" on my tank, 18 was a bit low, 24 is wet armpits. 22 works just perfect.
The stand thing is important. Most doorways are under 32"36x36x30 tall would work. But keep that in mind during design.
I finished building my last stand in place, but when I tore it down, I had to cut the stand apart in place too.

I avoided that with my new build.
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Old 08-23-2014, 04:53 AM
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Originally Posted by Aquattro View Post
The stand thing is important. Most doorways are under 32"36x36x30 tall would work. But keep that in mind during design.
I finished building my last stand in place, but when I tore it down, I had to cut the stand apart in place too.

I avoided that with my new build.
That's why stands should be made from extruded t-slot aluminum.

They can be built in place and taken apart anytime.
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  #19  
Old 08-23-2014, 04:56 AM
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Originally Posted by xenon View Post
That's why stands should be made from extruded t-slot aluminum.

They can be built in place and taken apart anytime.
That is an option, but I find it easier to skin a wooden stand vs metal. Done both, choose wood for my last 2 builds. Just easier from a DIY stand point
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  #20  
Old 08-23-2014, 04:59 AM
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with those dimensions did you consider a center overflow? I had a 24x36 with an end overflow and it drove me nuts with the look and your limited to a stand like the one you showed. with it in the center you could knock the end of that stand off and have it sit closer to the wall. if your set on a stand like the one you showed in that picture then I would have an external overflow put on

Steve
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