herbie and basement sump

[mark]

even with a gate valve it's very very small adjustments then need to wait few minutes between touching it. Also first time up might take a bit of playing cause you're balancing against your sump level, height in overflow, evap and ATO. When I converted from Dursos to get everything how I wanted ended up adjusting height of last baffle. Since then truly pretty much set and forget.

[MarkoD]

Oh that could be the issue then. I'm using a Rubbermaid as a sump until I take apart my other tank and move the sump. There's no baffle in this Rubbermaid so the water level is all over the place

[FishyFishy!]

The deapth that the water enters the sump can be an issue as well. How far does your drain pipe go under water in the sump? The water heights can make a big difference too, so I wouldn't worry too much about it until you get that other sump in place.

[gregzz4]

Originally Posted by MarkoD

yes its gurgling right below the gate valve. but i sounds like really fine bubbles

and there seems to be a click/knocking sound once in a while.

I have a 'fuge above my sump and I get this sometimes (new sump planned - no divorced 'fuge)
In my case it's air being sucked into the standpipe
The vortec is pretty strong, even at only a couple hundred gph, and creates noises/bubbles. Clicking, thumping what have you
It's very sensitive to the level in my sump and as was stated in your case, your temp sump is probably the cause
The only way I can get rid of the gurgling/clicking/etc is to plug the standpipe with the bulb of my turkey baster until the 'fuge is quite full. The extra water height flushes all the air out and it's done - 'till I mess with a pump again and upset the sump levels
Using the bulb allows the flush without messing with the gate valve

With that said ... maybe you can still fix it with the temp sump in place
What's the water level above your main standpipe ?
Not that there's a magic #, but I'd be looking in the overflow box to see there's not a vortec happening there

[MarkoD]

Originally Posted by gregzz4

I have a 'fuge above my sump and I get this sometimes (new sump planned - no divorced 'fuge)
In my case it's air being sucked into the standpipe
The vortec is pretty strong, even at only a couple hundred gph, and creates noises/bubbles. Clicking, thumping what have you
It's very sensitive to the level in my sump and as was stated in your case, your temp sump is probably the cause
The only way I can get rid of the gurgling/clicking/etc is to plug the standpipe with the bulb of my turkey baster until the 'fuge is quite full. The extra water height flushes all the air out and it's done - 'till I mess with a pump again and upset the sump levels
Using the bulb allows the flush without messing with the gate valve

With that said ... maybe you can still fix it with the temp sump in place
What's the water level above your main standpipe ?
Not that there's a magic #, but I'd be looking in the overflow box to see there's not a vortec happening there

There's about 5" of water over the opening . I can see that there's no air being sucked in. But I sometimes see bubbles coming out.

I'll probably end up putting a second valve closer to the sump

[duncangweller]

If you put a second valve in then surely you will end up doing twice as much fine tuning. I would just have the one valve closer to the sump

Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk

[Madreefer]

My gate valves are in my stand 30" from tank.
Pipes drop down 8' in to the sump and the outlet is just a tad under the waterline in the sump.
I have no noise at all so I would think it's your union causing the noise.
I would also be bothered with going up and down the stairs to adjust the gate valves. Tuning my herbies is a PIA, just too finicky. I miss my dursos.

[sphelps]

The further away the valve is from the sump the harder it will be to tune, it can be done but it takes longer for it to "settle" after each adjustment. The issue relates to the pressure difference over the valve and the further away the valve is from the sump the higher the vacuum effect after the valve which is ultimately what causes the noise (almost like cavitation). Adding an additional valve at the sump level is a decent solution, even if it's just a ball valve, it will allow you to reduce the pressure difference on the first valve and hence reduce the noise there while also making it easier to tune.

[MarkoD]

Yeah I'll add a second valve and keep the first open. It can't be removed now that the tank is in place