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  #1  
Old 12-31-2013, 10:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Reef Pilot View Post
First, before you start, have your reagent pack cut, and opened/shaped ready to pour the powder into the vial. It is very important that you get all the powder into the vial really quick without spilling any.

Be sure the vial is always clean, inside and out.

After the C2 comes on, note the exact time in seconds and pour the reagent into the vial, and swirl for almost the full 3 min. It is very important that all the powder is dissolved and no micro bubbles. Then insert, close, and hold the button until the 3 min timer shows on the display. If you just press and release, you will get a reading but it will not be accurate. After the 3 min counts down, you will get your reading.

My Hanna checker readings are consistently accurate, and usually don't vary more than .01 when I have done more than one test.

Before when I was using the color test kits, they would read zero while the Hanna would read .6 and higher. It is very hard to distinguish white, and a slight off white, and they always read too low.

I use the Low Range Hanna Phosphate Checker, model HI 713 and reagents are HI 713-25.
Are you using RO water to rinse out the vials? I've been just rinsing them under the tap..which seems pretty stupid in retrospect now...

I've been emptying my packets over a piece of paper now, seems easier than trying to get it all out of the little packet into the little vial without spilling any.
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Old 12-31-2013, 11:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Reef Pilot View Post
First, before you start, have your reagent pack cut, and opened/shaped ready to pour the powder into the vial. It is very important that you get all the powder into the vial really quick without spilling any.

Be sure the vial is always clean, inside and out.

After the C2 comes on, note the exact time in seconds and pour the reagent into the vial, and swirl for almost the full 3 min. It is very important that all the powder is dissolved and no micro bubbles. Then insert, close, and hold the button until the 3 min timer shows on the display. If you just press and release, you will get a reading but it will not be accurate. After the 3 min counts down, you will get your reading.

My Hanna checker readings are consistently accurate, and usually don't vary more than .01 when I have done more than one test.

Before when I was using the color test kits, they would read zero while the Hanna would read .6 and higher. It is very hard to distinguish white, and a slight off white, and they always read too low.

I use the Low Range Hanna Phosphate Checker, model HI 713 and reagents are HI 713-25.
waaaaait, you're supposed to hold the button down? Oh my I haven't done that once. My readings have probably been totally wrong.

I do notice how much of a difference a few micro bubbles can make, the difference between 0.05 and 0.00.

One of the things I've done to make the readings easier is to use both vials included in the kit, fill both with tank water, then only put the reagent in one. I use the straight water one as the C1 blank. I find that the powder that comes with the phosphate kit dissolves so slowly that by the time it' completely dissolved and the micro bubbles are well and truly gone that the checker has turned itself off by the time I'm ready to go with C2 half the time. Am I making it less accurate that way?
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Old 12-21-2013, 02:40 PM
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I went through three Hanna colorimeter kits and found that I would get three different results with them no matter how careful and consistent my testing methods are. Now I use their results as a guideline vs an actual number. I think their testing method is pretty flawed so I'm just holding on until a more reliable test comes out. The chemical reaction they are using as the base may be spot on but it's not reliable.
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Old 12-31-2013, 06:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Magickiwi View Post
First, get a live chicken. It has to be live and if you can get one with mostly white and red feathers. If it has black feathers the test won't work.



Next wave the chicken in counter-clockwise circles around your tester. For the love of God DON'T go clockwise, that's big trouble.



After you've done six complete rotations and 1 half rotation raise the chicken to the East. It has to be the East because the West is for Alk testing.



Next put on a pair of non-latex powder-free rainforest friendly examination gloves, blue if you can find them.



After you have the gloves on put the chicken in a brown burlap bag and place it in the corner of the room furthest away from your sump.



Keep in mind this only works if you have more yellow fish than orange or blue. For blue fish the process is totally different.



Once the bagged chicken is in the corner furthest from your sump you take the checker and spill some water in the middle of the pentagram on the floor. I forgot to mention the pentagram on the floor, draw it in orange or white chalk, white is a little easier to find and it tastes better in step 27.



It goes on from here...

Ok I'm half way done and satin is asking for my first born clownfish, what's next?
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Old 12-31-2013, 08:04 PM
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Then you got the one out of millions. Google search shows hundreds oh threads on the phosphate checkers.
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Old 12-31-2013, 08:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Magickiwi View Post
Then you got the one out of millions. Google search shows hundreds oh threads on the phosphate checkers.
Well, if you were local, I would invite you over and show how I do it, and test yours against mine. I did that with another local canreefer, who was not sure whether his was reading correctly. But once shown my methods, his too, had the same consistent readings.

It is easy to screw up, so not surprised that some people may have some trouble with it (and I have done it, too). But I also know that many are happy with it, so obviously they know how to use it properly.
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Old 12-31-2013, 09:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Reef Pilot View Post
Well, if you were local, I would invite you over and show how I do it, and test yours against mine. I did that with another local canreefer, who was not sure whether his was reading correctly. But once shown my methods, his too, had the same consistent readings.

It is easy to screw up, so not surprised that some people may have some trouble with it (and I have done it, too). But I also know that many are happy with it, so obviously they know how to use it properly.
You coukd always make a how to video :d
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Old 12-31-2013, 10:07 PM
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Quote:
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You coukd always make a how to video :d
Well, I've already described it, which should work for most people. Not really all that difficult....

But if you want videos, BRS has made a couple. First one is about phosphates in general and how to test for them. The second one is about choosing the right test kit, and shows how to use them. The Hanna phosphate checker part is near the end of that one. The only diff with my method is that I swirl for close to 3 min, not 30 sec to be sure all the powder gets dissolved.
http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/video/...ing-phosphate/

http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/video/...rium-test-kit/
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  #9  
Old 12-31-2013, 10:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Reef Pilot View Post
Well, I've already described it, which should work for most people. Not really all that difficult....

But if you want videos, BRS has made a couple. First one is about phosphates in general and how to test for them. The second one is about choosing the right test kit, and shows how to use them. The Hanna phosphate checker part is near the end of that one. The only diff with my method is that I swirl for close to 3 min, not 30 sec to be sure all the powder gets dissolved.
http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/video/...ing-phosphate/

http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/video/...rium-test-kit/
Very true ty for the links!
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