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#11
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![]() Quote:
First, check your source water pressure with a gauge, if it's 60 psi or better, you should be fine. If it's 40 or less, start looking for a PRV in your home plumbing & see if it can be adjusted for more pressure. If you can't find the PRV, you may have to invest in a booster pump to get the desired performance out of your RO. It just keeps getting better & better, no? How's that headache coming along now?
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Mike 77g sumpless SW DIY 10 watt multi-chip LED build ![]() Last edited by mike31154; 10-28-2013 at 02:25 PM. |
#12
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![]() Hahah its gettin a lil worse but thanks for all the info guys. It all helps alot.
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#13
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![]() So I think iv finally gotten it all figured it out. I removed the storage tank and the stupid aso valve, and hooked it directly up to my tap. Would you guys say its doing its job. I tested my tap water with my TDS meter and it read 221, and then i tested the water coming out of the ro it says 20. Is that acceptable or should it be doing a better job?
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#14
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![]() Thats acceptable for your system. The RO works at about a 98% efficiency.
If you wanted to bring it down to 0, as many do, then u have to add a DI (dionization) cartridge. Here in Surrey we have about 12-15 ppm water and I run an RO/Di system for 0 TDS. The lower your ppm, then the less work the DI portion has to do. The DI, expensive stuff, lasts longer. |
#15
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![]() This may be a stupid question, but once I have my RO water do I still need to add prime to it? Also the PH coming out of ro is like 6, so obviously add some PH booster? I ran my filter for a few hours and its now down to 14. So hopefully it gets lower still.
Last edited by Slyguy00; 10-29-2013 at 04:55 PM. |
#16
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![]() No adding prime, infact you shouldn't need to add anything!
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Always looking for the next best coral... 90g starphire cube/400mhRadium20k/2 XHO/2x27w UV/2x39w T5/ 3 Trulumen led strips |
#17
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![]() Awesome thanks chris!
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#18
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![]() Don't have to add anything, the salt mix will buffer the ph as well
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