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View Poll Results: How do you acclimate? | |||
Simplified(bag in tank warm add water wait add item to tank) |
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52 | 50.00% |
Drip acclimation |
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26 | 25.00% |
Drip/simplified method with quarantine |
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12 | 11.54% |
Your own method |
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14 | 13.46% |
Don't have a tank |
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0 | 0% |
Voters: 104. You may not vote on this poll |
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#1
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![]() Quote:
http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2005-11/eb/index.php and http://reefbuilders.com/2013/12/12/a...orals-wrong-2/ The first one talks about how the author went from having less than 50% survival on shipped corals to 100% survival by shipping them out of water, wrapped in nothing but seawater dampened newspaper. The have some interesting theories as to why that might be. I've also read other articles, specifically relating to acclimation of fish, that warn against aggressively aerating the water they come shipped in because as the oxygen levels in the bag fall during shipment and CO2 levels rise, ammonia is also being released from normal fish respiration. But as CO2 rises, the water also becomes more acidic, which drives the ammonium/ammonia equilibrium towards higher concentrations of relatively non-toxic ammonium. You get the bag and aerate the crap out of it, and the pH spikes creating potentially lethal concentrations of ammonia. All three of those things could have potentially occurred to your mad jelly corals: issues with water fouling talked about in the reef keeping article, the temperature issue you identified, and an issue with ammonia once the water became aerated and the pH went back up to 'normal' sea water levels. It's why as a general rule I try to get my corals out of the water they came in as quickly as possible, especially if they've been shipped. After a long flight they're literally stewing in their own sewage. |
#2
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![]() I use the CPR drip acclimator. It does all the add water etc for me. I just plop the little devil into the reservoir, set the drip rate and it's off to the races.
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I have to go out and buy more snails for my hermit crabs. |
#3
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![]() Simplified method.
Most often live stocked is shipped to me, so I figure why waste time drip acclimating, get them warm and into the tank asap.
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28g Nano Cube drilled with 13g sump in stock stand. Vertex IN80 Skimmer, Phosban 150 Reactor, Apex Controller, DIY LED with stock hood, dimmable Established March 2006 |
#4
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![]() I don't so much as drip as just pour a cup of tank water into the bag after floating for 10 min then float for another five.
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#5
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![]() i lost so much stuff doing it the slow and steady way. I finally said f-it.
Now its toss bag in, when i remeber that i have something floating i go back open it toss in some "prime" plus some tank water. wait a few and chuck him in. When doing some research on why i was losing so much crap right from the store, Apparently the theory goes, bag water is dirty once the bag is open it gets toxic fast. thus the prime. most store water is 0.21 from what i have seen, My water is 0.24 thus the short transitional phase. Fish have been going in the tank on my last few purchases better then any i have had in the past they seem to skip that getting comfy stage and seem to have some pep in their step.
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Two clownfish were in a tank. One says to the other, how do i drive this thing? |
#6
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![]() All i do is float the bag after 10 min add 1 shot of water wait 5 min add another cup wait 5 add to tank. This eliminated losses to my more sensitive corals
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#8
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![]() I check the salinity of store water and depending on the fish.
Most ofthe time its a float the bag but if salts off ill drip |
#9
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![]() float the bag dump fish into net and then into tank.
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#10
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