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#131
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![]() Oh man sorry to hear about Crush.
Im glad your sticking with it J |
#132
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![]() Quote:
I guess my fiance and I will rethink the sticking of this tank now but most likely it will be the same just with one less. Maybe just the Porcupine and eel. My fiance has always wanted a Dogface Puffer but I do not think I want another Puffer. Jason I was just checking out your Tank Blog and man that FTS is gorgeous! What a beautiful tank! I was actually just out in Ladner last weekend, I should have seen if you had a few minutes to show it to me. Maybe next time. Last edited by GreenSpottedPuffer; 11-13-2007 at 05:51 AM. |
#133
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![]() Well I was just looking through old pictures of Crush back in the big tank and thought I would post a few...
He looks so little in these pics! ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
#134
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![]() Ok, back to the tank!
I filled the tank with about 10G of water this morning but had to stop. Seems that the overflow has a slow leak near the bottom, so when I add water tot he tank it gets into the overflow a little. This is obviously a problem. My question is, do I need to get the water back out completely to add more silicone to the overflow or can it be done wet? Im guessing it all has to come out. |
#135
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![]() You will need to remove the water for the silicone to set up properly
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#136
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![]() Good to see you're moving ahead.
If it's the overflow tower itself, does it really matter if it leaks? Realize yours is laid out different, but thinking on mine with the heights of the Dursos and room in the sump, if the towers leaked, wouldn't matter. Now if it was the overflow bulkheads... |
#137
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![]() I guess the only thing is that if it was leaking into the overflow with only 10g of water then it's probably worth addressing now. Ordinarily I wouldn't sweat a tiny leak into the overflow if the tank was full and the overflow empty, it just means the water would equalize into the overflow. But if you had a short standpipe or just a strainer on the bulkhead (eg. if it was a Herbie overflow) then potentially the water level in the tank is at risk in a power fail situation, so in that case I'd fix it. But I think if you're noticing water slip in with only 10g then it's probably going to be a pretty fast leak when the tank is completely full, so I think either way, better to say a few swear words now (Well OK that's only if you're me
![]() Just my $0.02 ![]() ![]()
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-- Tony My next hobby will be flooding my basement while repeatedly banging my head against a brick wall and tearing up $100 bills. Whee! Last edited by Delphinus; 11-13-2007 at 07:00 PM. |
#138
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![]() If you're are going to re-silicone, might want to check if you can just smear some new over the old or would you need to cut out.
When I re-did a QTank, I just cut out the fillet but didn't worry about where the plates actually met and worked okay. |
#139
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![]() Ya, if your sump can handle the whole tank draining down to the level of your drains, then no problem. I would, for piece of mind want my sump to be able to hold all the tank water down to drain level. That way, if there is a problem in future, you know for sure that the sump will not overflow.
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#140
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![]() Quote:
Thing is, its a small leak at the bottom of the overflow but if the power went out, it could drain the entire tank, slowly. I hope I can just add more silicone ontop of whats there but Im not sure. How can I tell if I need to cut it all out or just put a good layer ontop? The overflow itself is very stable and well attached. I tried before to pull it off to see how well it was attached and it wouldnt budge. I used so much silicone on the outside of the overflow that Im really surprised it has a leak! I think it may be just in the corner where the overflow glass meets the tanks silicone. |