Pacific Coast Chiller - Page 13

StirCrazy · #**121** 06-06-2005, 03:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tangman

Well , I did

well what was your problem and how was it fixed?

Steve

StirCrazy · #**122** 06-06-2005, 03:25 AM

wow I already got a e-mail asking more info about the set up and saying it has been sent to Tim and he is the one I should e-mail with the further info. fast at replying to e-mails anyways.

Steve

StirCrazy · #**123** 06-06-2005, 03:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by reef_raf

Steve, have you looked at expandig the size of the intake/output fittings to allow greater flow? This was described in one of my threads on RC...

do you have a link to that, seems unless you pay for premium service you can't do a search on RC now

Steve

StirCrazy · #**124** 06-06-2005, 03:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tangman

Hey Steve , don't bother E-mailling them just give them a call with the 1-800 number on the chiller . They are VERY helpful people

you have that number handy? it is dark under the house and a pain to go down there

Steve

Tangman · #**125** 06-10-2005, 01:04 PM

503-982-6700

One question though, how many GPH are you pumping at your outlet and do you know that you must also factor in less -100GPH for the chiller itself.
Also it is better to have the outlet dumping into the main tank rather than back into the sump.

IslandReefer · #**126** 06-10-2005, 01:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tangman

Also it is better to have the outlet dumping into the main tank rather than back into the sump.

Hey Tango why?
with good flow through the sump/OF shouldn't it all be the same temp..ie good constant mix.If there is a bit of a temp differential I would want it in the sump not with my fish and corals, No?
Since ,on hot days (prolly most days) reef tanks are mostly heated by their lights, making the tank out flow hotter than the in flow....so shouldn't one cool this hotter water as it gets to the sump?
Thanks

StirCrazy · #**127** 06-10-2005, 06:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tangman

503-982-6700

One question though, how many GPH are you pumping at your outlet and do you know that you must also factor in less -100GPH for the chiller itself.
Also it is better to have the outlet dumping into the main tank rather than back into the sump.

yup I know it is better to have it going to the main tank its self and if I have anymore problems I am going to try that one also.

Steve

Tangman · #**128** 06-11-2005, 03:17 PM

christyf5 · #**129** 08-07-2005, 01:59 PM

So where does one get these fuses? The one and only one I had went last night

Typical as I'm in Van today and can't do anything about it.

Christy

Tangman · #**130** 08-07-2005, 04:42 PM

Just give Pacific Coast a call , they will send you fuses for free.
But the reason you are blowing fuses is most probably ,you don't have your flow right ( GPH) . On my 120G ( the one I have for sale) I had problems until I "dialled in" the GPH, but once I did that , I have had no fuses blown for two years.
If you have a CL-650, the manual recomends 650GPH , and that is measured at the end of the pipe/ outlet where the water pours back into the main tank. I used the head loss calulator on RC. Also the GPH you are shooting for on the calulator must be 100GPH more than your target GPH , because that is about how many GPH the chiller will restrict the flow.
Also after a call to Pacific Coast about useing a CL-650 on my 250G new set up ( the CL-650 is only rated for up to a 180G , the reason for the call ) they told me , that after rescent testing they have found that their posted GPH's are a little low and a CL-650 will work best at about 800 GPH .
HOPE THIS INFO HELPS