RO/DI hooked up to cold AND hot supply

[mike31154]

There's a trade off to the better production ratio eh? IMO, save yourself the hassle. Not only are you using more energy for a bit or warm water, but the rejection rate with warmer water is worse, so you'll burn thru DI media faster. Personal experience with my unit in winter vs summer - summer RO TDS @ about 14-16 degrees C incoming water temp = 1. Winter RO TDS with incoming water @ about 8 degrees C = 0. I can live with a slightly lower production rate thank you very much. Incoming TDS for the most part is in the 160 to 170 range in my humble abode. That's Kalamalka Lake water. On the rare occasion they switch us to Duteau Creek source, TDS drops to 50!

[Myka]

Originally Posted by Ryanerickson

Mindy the proper way to do this is with a mixing valve you could get one from a plumbing wholesaler. They are commonly used on faucets in public washrooms that are touch less operation.

That sounds like a good idea...I'll look into these and see if I can incorporate it.

[Myka]

My tap is at 65 psi and it's a 150 gpd membrane. I had a booster pump but it only improved production from 1:1.7 to 1:1.6 so I didn't use it. For me the biggest difference in production is incoming temperature. Cold tap water this time of year is 4-6C and in summer it is 8-12C. If I boost it up to 20C then my production almost doubles.

I'm not concerned too much about DI as it hasn't been a problem -even dealing with ammonia in the RO water from chloramines I just replace the DI when I replace the prefilters...it's pretty burned up by then.

My tap water is 180-220 and has chloramines so I run two carbon filters. My membrane is 4 years old or something and is running at 8 ppm last time I checked. I flush it lots. It's holding it's own.