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#1
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![]() The plan I was thinking of using for the auto-water change was to use a 29g tank (I already have one in a closet unused) that I would fill with saltwater. Using the Apex and DOS I would set up a daily water change to swap out 1-2 gallons of water at a certain time. At 2 gallons per day it would last me 14 days before I had to replenish the water reservoir. I would then mix up more saltwater and add it back in myself (likely using a pump like you described). That would have to be done manually because like I mentioned in the last post, unfortunately I don't have anywhere to store large tubs or garbage cans for water. I was also planning to setup a float switch to remind me when the water change reservoir was getting low. The cabinets that I'm picking up is my attempt at adding some storage but at best all I can fit is a 30ish" wide storage cabinet on either end of the tank and it has to "look pretty" or my wife will not be happy with me. That means nothing left out in the open, nothing left unfinished looking or out of place, etc.
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#2
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![]() I have an even simpler ATO system. I have an RO/DI line going directly to my sump (no reservoir). It runs through a solenoid that comes on every 6 hours for 5 min. The sump level is controlled by a float valve. But as a final failsafe, I also have that double float switch that will not allow the solenoid to come on (and flow water) if that sump level is reached. Have had this set up for a several years, and even my primary float has never failed, let alone the backups.
I should mention though, that my RO/DI system is located upstairs near the kitchen sink (also use RO for household drinking) and has two pressurized (by household line pressure only) holding tanks. And my sump is located downstairs, so always have decent pressure and volume available there.
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#3
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![]() That water change article is a great read. I'm still reading through it but there's some great info in here. It's possible that this question is answered already in that article and I haven't found it but I wonder if the benefits of daily, continuous water changes would out weigh the fact that they're slightly less effective? Exporting nutrients seems so crucial for some corals. If it's just straight up wasteful and not very beneficial (or not enough to be worth it) then I will definitely reconsider my plan.
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#4
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![]() Quote:
I prefer to have a limited supply of RO available in a reservoir. I aim for 10% of the tank volume. That's enough for a week's worth of top off for most tanks, and it's little enough that if the ATO pumped it all into the system the salinity won't drop so much that it will kill everything. I also design the sump so that it will hold the entire volume of the ATO reservoir so that if the situation does happen the floor doesn't get wet. Redundancy, redundancy. Quote:
My preferred method is like this: - Tee off your RO/DI so you have a line and a float valve going to RO tub (not the ATO reservoir) and a line going to your SW mixing tub. You can use manual ball valves, or you can hook it up to the Apex with solenoid valves so it will automatically refill these once a week (OWHY). - Use a pump and hose to refill the ATO reservoir from the RO tub. - Use the same hose (sans pump) to drain the tank via siphon to either a floor drain, laundry tub, or bathtub. While draining, use a gravel vac and bucket to vacuum sand (you'll only need to do maybe 3-4 buckets for a tank that size) and dump down toilet. - Once draining is done, refill with hose and pump. Just drop the pump into the SW mixing tub. I use quick connect hose fittings for hoses, and I use a Quiet One 6000 for a pump which moves water pretty quick. Pick up a few plastic spring clamps to hold your hoses in place while you draining and refilling. If you have space you can plumb in the pumps and use ball valves so you don't have to use a hose. You can hook the pumps up to switches so you just have to flick a switch to refill the tank. The reason I like this is that "nothing" can go wrong. Sure, you can forget the siphon hose and drain too much out. Fix that by submerging the hose only to the line you want to drain to. If you had solenoids doing this, one could fail so it drains but doesn't refill (return pump runs dry), or it fills but doesn't drain (wet floor). It's up to you, but this is something I just don't trust to complete automation. You can do all sorts of things to partially automate it. Last edited by Myka; 10-07-2015 at 02:27 PM. |
#5
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![]() Thank you for the feedback! I'm not sure I really know what I want lol. That kind of experience is great to hear... maybe I'll rethink the cls and add a couple more powerheads.
2 gyre's will offer good flow but do you think it's enough or would you recommend adding a couple vortechs or jebao pumps? Sent from my SM-N920W8 using Tapatalk |
#6
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![]() I would add a couple Jebao pumps as well,... lots of flow, good for SPS. Plus with multiple pumps, if one dies for some reason, still have others to keep adequate flow. Biggest issue with powerheads is that you can't hide them,... well, not easily.
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#7
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![]() Ya the fact that CLS can be so hidden but add so much flow is what attracted me to them in the first place. Living in a townhouse, almost every wall I can put my tank has a neighbor on the other side. The vibrations and noise you described makes me worried they might be troublesome.
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